Problems with my 2010 Boxxers

[northernstyle]

I just got my 2010 Boxxer teams

Out of the Box they felt pretty good. Did feel a little stiffer than i would have thought for a medium spring .

After each ride they have progressively gotten stiffer and stickier. Today was my third ride and the forks started to stick so much they were actually not rebounding. almost got tossed over the bars on a jump

At the bottom of my run there was rubber stuck on the left leg . I am assuming from my seals. I cleaned the seals and lubed them and the forks only lasted about 2 laps before they were crap again.

I havent popped them open yet, but thinking maybe they dont have enough oil in the bath maybe?? I know a batch of the old ones shipped out with nothing but grease in the legs .

I need to know how much oil goes in the bath?
or any other info anyone has. no one here in whistler knows anything about them yet. not too stoked on these forks right now

Any help would be appreciated.

[ridingsupreme]

15cc's of 10w in each leg. sometimes when the seals are either new or really old they can cause the problems it sounds like your having but I have never worked on the 2010 stuff. and i've never heard of a crash as result of seal stiction that sucks a$!! try putting a bit of grease just above the seal and cycling the forks a dozen times so the grease can get in there . remove excess from legs and ride! idk if this helps or not but best of luck!

[davep]

Originally Posted by northernstyle

... I cleaned the seals and lubed them ...
I havent popped them open yet...

Wha???

Like every other fork from every brand, you need to check bath oil and pack the seals with grease (putting lube on the outside of a seal does not work)....nothing new. You could argue that it should not be that way, but it is and has been for years (ever ridden machine build wheels w/o checking them over?).

[spornographer]

Originally Posted by northernstyle

I just got my 2010 Boxxer teams

Out of the Box they felt pretty good.

did one of them have a problem and the other didn't?

sorry, can't help it...just so amped peaty won again and he probably calls it a forks, too : )

[BmxConvert]

Originally Posted by ridingsupreme

15cc's of 10w in each leg. sometimes when the seals are either new or really old they can cause the problems it sounds like your having but I have never worked on the 2010 stuff. and i've never heard of a crash as result of seal stiction that sucks a$!! try putting a bit of grease just above the seal and cycling the forks a dozen times so the grease can get in there . remove excess from legs and ride! idk if this helps or not but best of luck!

It's no longer 15cc's in the lowers. It's 245cc's in the damper and 10cc in each lower leg for 2010. Also the 2010 boxxers may have a longer break in period due to the bushings inside being atleast twice as long.

I have a few friends that are on Sram deals and got their forks early. I talked to Sram numerous times about the specifics of the fork(although they typically had to call the engineer (Jeremy Boobar, I believe) to get the answers to my question). After talking it through with them I started doing full tear downs. They are every bit as quick as the pre '10 fork and a pleasure to work on.
What I would suggest is pull the lowers and pack slick honey in the gap btween the foam ring and the dust seal. When I say pack I mean really pack it in there. If you don't, any Slick Honey you put on the bushings/seal will migrate right into that gap when the fork cycles up and down. The first bushing is also easily accessed and much longer(atleast twice as)long as the pre '10 forks. Smear some Slick Honey on that.

-Kevin

[slowmtb]

So you buy brand new forks and they have issues out of the box lthumbsdown: . Then people step in to help and give the impression that many many forks of various brands can be the same - I mean seriously, is the world coming to

Some good advice above though, all the best getting them dialled

[go-ride.com]

Along with making sure the bushings are really well lubed and the lowers have some oil it seems that you have too much ending stroke rebound (red rebound knob). If that is turned up too high the fork will back on jump faces and large hits causing and OTB issue.

If you haven't seen it this tuning guide is a good place to start:
http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/...%20Rev%20B.pdf

[livewakesnow]

Whoa, Whoa, Whoa. Backkk Up. People keep saying forks... Did you buy more than one?

[IH8Rice]

Originally Posted by slowmtb

So you buy brand new forks and they have issues out of the box lthumbsdown: . Then people step in to help and give the impression that many many forks of various brands can be the same - I mean seriously, is the world coming to

Some good advice above though, all the best getting them dialled

i agree.
i dont remember any fork that ive bought where ive had to take it apart to pack grease in there or to fill it up with oil....if the fork was a "do-it-yourself" kinda deal i can understand, but when youre buying a fork, the last thing i intend to do is take it apart just to use it.
id be sending it back for a R.A..

[largextracheese]

and so it begins.....

[General Lee]

Originally Posted by IH8Rice

i agree.
i dont remember any fork that ive bought where ive had to take it apart to pack grease in there or to fill it up with oil....if the fork was a "do-it-yourself" kinda deal i can understand, but when youre buying a fork, the last thing i intend to do is take it apart just to use it.
id be sending it back for a R.A.

yeah that makes sense. 2-10 minutes of maintenance vs. waiting a week for someone else to put grease under a dust wiper. You don't have to do it, but the fork works a lot better if you do. I've had mine for 3 weeks and i've repacked the wipers twice already and will do it again this afternoon after riding in the mud yesterday. Small price to pay for a fork that feels perfect every time i get on it.

everyone wants a high end fork but no one wants to take care of it. nothing new.

[IH8Rice]

im not talking about sending it in for service. id just return it.
DaveP mentioned, you need to check the oil bath and pack the seals with grease on every fork.
why should a end user do that?? you pay X amount of money for a fork and the last thing i should be worrying about is if the factory forgot to add the right amount of oil to the fork.
and i dont recall any fork ive ever owned, DH or XC, where ive had to do that....Foes, Fox, Marz

doin regular maintenance is one thing, sure....having to make the fork work outa the box is something completely out there


the OP said his fork is ridiculously stiff.....thats because they didnt pack grease into the seals? please

[General Lee]

the mistake you are making is assuming that because a few of us can make the fork work better than stock (and it works fine stock) and require less frequent rebuilds, prefer to use higher quality lube/grease than what comes oem, and are willing to share a bit of advice to other owners then all the forks need to be taken apart to work. simply not true. but like most things mass produced in this world there is room for improvement. that's all.

[IH8Rice]

so packing grease under his seals will fix his problem?

phew, there you go Northernstyle.....pack grease under you seals and youre A-okay.




of course theres room for improvement...i didnt say there was. re-read what i said and youll see that doing all the work to make it work outa the box is stupid.
like my opinion or not.

[davetrump]

Originally Posted by IH8Rice

im not talking about sending it in for service. id just return it.
DaveP mentioned, you need to check the oil bath and pack the seals with grease on every fork.
why should a end user do that?? you pay X amount of money for a fork and the last thing i should be worrying about is if the factory forgot to add the right amount of oil to the fork.

doin regular maintenance is one thing, sure....having to make the fork work outa the box is something completely out there


the OP said his fork is ridiculously stiff.....thats because they didnt pack grease into the seals? please

having owned a 2010 boxxer for a month and done 6 days of lift serviced dh in all kinds of weather i can say there is nothong wrong with how rockshox is shipping the forks... how many people who are hating have even seen one let alone ridden one? right... that's what i thought


the fork comes with the correct oil levels, and grease under the wipers... the grease under the wipers on any fork gets ruin pretty quick and breaks washes out when riding in rain/mud... and the OEM stuff does not seem to be as good as slick honey/red rum combo.

the lowers are have the correct oil from the factory as well... but like any high end product it does not hurt (and is recommended) to rebuilt after the break in period is over (as in a good weekend of thrashing)>

The spring leg (spring comes coated in grease/red rum) and Damper do not need to be touched and out of the box they are perfect. if you change springs be sure to cover it in grease in the same manner as the one you removed.

Buy a 2010 boxxer... put a bit of triflow on the upper legs, cycle the fork a few times to work it in and do ride. your fork will feel great (this type of lube should be done daily or more in bad weather on ANY fork)

after a solid few days of riding it is a good idea to regrease/lube the lowers are the grease tends to settle in.... this should then be done at least every 30 days. depending on the weather i do it every two weeks or once a week as it only takes about 3 minutes, and keeps it feeling 100% perfect all the time. why wait until it feels like it needs to be cleaned and sacrifice performance? preventative maintenance goes a long long way.

also... if you have had a recent crash be sure to check that you did not twist the crowns... losen heaset and all crown bolts (sometime you will hear some noise as fork straightens itself out). check to see if evrerythins lined up by inserting the axle without wheel... it should line right up into the other leg. if it is off by a bit you need to align your crowns.

there you have it... how to break in and maintain a 2010 boxxer.

***edit the above advice should be applied to all DH forks.