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Old 09-12-2008, 07:48 AM   #1
Cru Jones
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I need some feedback...

So, if I were to start a bike company and the first thing we offered was a progressive geo dirt/park/street (OK, mostly dirt ) bmx cruiser frame... do you think there would be any interest in that? Would you consider buying such a frame? How much would you be willing to pay for it?

I'm working on the specs for a prototype. Let me know what you think of the geo. The main differences between this and a traditional, race oriented cruiser would be the chain stay length, bb height, and head angle. BB and chain stays were calculated by basically taking what feels really good to me on 20s and 26s and going somewhere in between. I also compared the geo to the popular 24" mtbs, but tried to go a little more aggressive. So, it feels a little more like a 20. Let me know what you think!!

Edit: Integrated seat post clamp or not? Some people love them, some hate them.

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Old 09-12-2008, 08:07 AM   #2
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I think that would be a great frame and would be interested in buying one. I love BMX cruisers but never liked the long back ends and slack head angle. The 24" MTBs are great but there are only a couple of those frames I really like and I really don't want a suspension fork.

As for price if you could sell them around the same price point as a high end 20" BMX frame I think that would be something that would appeal to people. Fit's new cruiser is $550 for a complete with a full cromo frame. That is a pretty good deal for a decently spec'd bike.

Good luck with this. I hope it works out.

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Old 09-12-2008, 08:18 AM   #3
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The one issue I have with bikes above 20"s is the lack of clearance for barspins and x-ups. Nothing worse than boosting a big jump, throwing the bars, only to have the tire smack your foot and stop spinning. Fix that, and I'd buy it.
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Old 09-12-2008, 08:50 AM   #4
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I personally like the slacked head tube and seriously angled top tube. just more appealing to me and without compromising function.
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Old 09-12-2008, 08:51 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by joelalamo45 View Post
The one issue I have with bikes above 20"s is the lack of clearance for barspins and x-ups. Nothing worse than boosting a big jump, throwing the bars, only to have the tire smack your foot and stop spinning. Fix that, and I'd buy it.
Yeah, I definitely want it to clear. WCH has clearance on his Invisible Man cruiser, so we should be able to make it work. The steeper head angle should help with that.

Edit: Never mind on the steeper gives more clearance thing...
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Old 09-12-2008, 08:56 AM   #6
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I personally like the slacked head tube and seriously angled top tube. just more appealing to me and without compromising function.
You mean you like how it is on most cruisers? Or, do you mean on this bike? We might be able to lower the seat tube height a little, but I want to be able to slam the seat without hitting the rear tire. Head angle will def be in the 73.5 to 74.5 range.
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Old 09-12-2008, 09:01 AM   #7
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I agree w/ Joel's point about clearance - make sure that work with a decent sized knobby up front.

Price - if you could get under $500 for a solid US made product, I don't think that would be out of line. My USB frame was around that and it's worth it IMO.

I can't promise I would buy one, but I do think there is a market with older guys. Probably small but I'm guessing there are people out there that want this exact thing. 4 years ago I would have been one of them - but just too old and need a sussy fork these days

I am more a non-integrated person myself - I like being able to run a King HS and a Profile seat clamp works and doesnt weigh much. But I'm semi-retro grouch so that might not mean much.
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Old 09-12-2008, 09:26 AM   #8
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Looks sweet, especially if you keep the cost more in the BMX range of things ($300-$400).

Please offer at least 2 sizes. Riders 5'6" and 6'6" need different size bikes for reals.
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Old 09-12-2008, 09:32 AM   #9
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i can take or leave intgr seat clamps. they're surprisingly hard to do right. i've seen a few break.

i don't think a steeper H/A will give you more x up clearance.

another obstacle we faced with the arcade 'test' joint was finding a capable fabricator that would pay as much attention to the build as we expected.

sounds like a cool project.
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Old 09-12-2008, 09:36 AM   #10
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I am more a non-integrated person myself
not even a headset? come on you want to try it....ha

no wonder usb won't do int h/s :biggrin:
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Old 09-12-2008, 09:41 AM   #11
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i don't think a steeper H/A will give you more x up clearance.
Oh yeah, I think you're right. I was visualizing steeper HA as being less fork rake.... doh!
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Old 09-12-2008, 09:48 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stoked View Post
not even a headset? come on you want to try it....ha

no wonder usb won't do int h/s :biggrin:
I had a couple of S&M's with integrated years ago. IDK, it seems slick and all but I just like having a seperate piece. The old headset seems to work plenty fine. And having a press makes it no problem popping H/S cups in.

I think Lee said they might go integrated - maybe more for what the market demands vs. what he actually likes.
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Old 09-12-2008, 09:50 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cru Jones View Post
Oh yeah, I think you're right. I was visualizing steeper HA as being less fork rake.... doh!
That part of the frame is going to take some time figuring out. You might have to go 73.5 or even 73 - which I don't think is a bad thing. Shorter CS's and a good height BB seem more important to me.
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Old 09-12-2008, 10:21 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Cru Jones View Post
Yeah, I definitely want it to clear. WCH has clearance on his Invisible Man cruiser, so we should be able to make it work. The steeper head angle should help with that.

I guess I'm looking at the angles the wrong way, but wouldn't a more slacked head tube angle give you more foot clearance? the more slacked the further your tire is out in front?Even with your bars spun half way, the front of your wheel i thought would be further away from your foot. I don't know, i don't do many bar spins.

As far a most cruisers. No, i don't like the style of most cruisers. The top tube looks to be almost parallel with the ground. i like a more angled top tube. The look of that cadd layout doesn't look bad at all.

What i have noticed, you get alot of older guys who decide to get back into racing bmx and they go either for the 20 inch or the 24" race cruiser. now you have a bunch of older somewhat out of shape guys and dads getting on these really light, very twitchy and fragile race cruisers which i think can give somebody without a lot of experience a low confidence level. The people i hear at the track to me seem like the only companies they know of are redline free agent and gt. It'd be great to see some older dudes getting on a more aggressive "thicker" bike and not need to worry about weight so much and ride something that's comfortable.

I guess I'm talking more about the race side of the spectrum only because that's what i've been doing the last few weeks but to me there's no reason you can't have a set up that feels just as fun and comfortable bunny hopping curbs, riding local trails, and hitting the local race track on something that rides like a cruiser.


this is my 26" cruiser and it's been fun so far.

Last edited by jasride; 09-12-2008 at 10:58 AM.
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Old 09-12-2008, 10:24 AM   #15
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never mind on the head tube angle thing. i see it's been communicated.
haha
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