learn me about chain guides

**jacksonpt** · 02-08-2013, 08:01 AM

Thinking about going 1x9 on my yeti and would need a chain guide. I'd probably switch out my 22/34/bash for a single ring, something like a 26/bash. After looking at guides briefly online, seems some use pullies/rollers at both the top and bottom of the chain ring, some only on the bottom, some run the chain through a "channel" (similar to a derailleur) to hold/guide the chain...

Pros and cons to them all? Reliability? Ease of setup? Is chain drag ever an issue?

**Nick** · 02-08-2013, 08:09 AM

All/most of the current batch of guides work well, but the issue you might run into is trying to get a good setup with that small of a chainring.

**Jim Mac** · 02-08-2013, 08:36 AM

Agreed, usually the minimum chain ring is 32. I'd also run a non ramped chain ring up front. I still run a 'classic' E-13 32 Special on my trail bike.

**jacksonpt** · 02-08-2013, 12:25 PM

Well crap. Any suggestions for a better way to go 1x9 with a smaller chainring?

**Jim Mac** · 02-08-2013, 02:20 PM

Not to be dense, but why would you go 26 up front?

**IH8Rice** · 02-08-2013, 02:41 PM

the quasi-new MRP Micro will work with a 28-32t ring

http://www.mountainracingproducts.com/mrp/micro/

**JustMtnB44** · 02-08-2013, 03:15 PM

E13 XCX works pretty well at keeping the chain on, and does not have a lower pulley so no extra drag to worry about. MRP Lopes SL takes the same concept but adds a lower pulley for extra chain retention, similar to the Micro posted above but without the taco bash guard. Definitely use a non ramped chainring up front.

I've been using an XCX on my Spitfire, but sometimes the suspension action causes the chain to get stuck on the ISCG tabs, so I bought a Lopes SL guide to replace it (although I haven't actually installed it yet).

I don't know how or why you would run a 26T up front. It's best to have the chain ring in the middle ring position for good chain line, but most cranks won't fit less than a 30 or 32 due to the bolt circle. You could buy a new SS crank though to make this work. With only a 26T, you will spin out very easily on any slight downhill grade, and will probably find that gets annoying very quickly. Honestly, if you think that you need less than a 30T ring up front, then maybe 1x9 isn't for you.

**jacksonpt** · 02-11-2013, 06:47 AM

Originally Posted by Jim Mac

Not to be dense, but why would you go 26 up front?

As opposed to what? A 32? Just to keep the bike more fun for climbing.

**jacksonpt** · 02-11-2013, 06:50 AM

Originally Posted by JustMtnB44

E13 XCX works pretty well at keeping the chain on, and does not have a lower pulley so no extra drag to worry about. MRP Lopes SL takes the same concept but adds a lower pulley for extra chain retention, similar to the Micro posted above but without the taco bash guard. Definitely use a non ramped chainring up front.

I've been using an XCX on my Spitfire, but sometimes the suspension action causes the chain to get stuck on the ISCG tabs, so I bought a Lopes SL guide to replace it (although I haven't actually installed it yet).

I don't know how or why you would run a 26T up front. It's best to have the chain ring in the middle ring position for good chain line, but most cranks won't fit less than a 30 or 32 due to the bolt circle. You could buy a new SS crank though to make this work. With only a 26T, you will spin out very easily on any slight downhill grade, and will probably find that gets annoying very quickly. Honestly, if you think that you need less than a 30T ring up front, then maybe 1x9 isn't for you.

Why wouldn't 1x9 be for me? I don't pedal on downhill sections, so that's not a concern for me. I rarely use my middle ring, and never on my home trails where I ride 90% of the time.

**Nick** · 02-11-2013, 07:16 AM

Another solution here would be a 9-sp cassette with a 36t or 38t granny gear.
You could run a front 32t with the guide of your choice and still spin up your steeper climbs.

**jonKranked** · 02-11-2013, 08:12 AM

jackson, the problem with doing 1x9, as stated previously, with a chainring smaller than 32t is that it forces you to mount on the granny tabs, which will cause shifting issues on the bottom portion of your cassette; the chainring is biased towards the top of the gearing, and not centered. Centered is what you need when running 1x9. which on a set of triple cranks means mid ring position, and is limited to 32t. [edit] the tooth size is limited by the bcd of these tabs. i think there's a guy that makes like a 30t ring that will fit, but its something like $100. [/edit]

fwiw on my trail bike i run a 32t ring in combination with a 12-36 cassette. It gives me enough range for all but the steepest/longest of climbs.

**kazlx** · 02-11-2013, 10:05 PM

No idea what your terrain is like, but riding a 1x9 has gotten me in better shape. It forces you to muscle instead of spin. Like mentioned above, you are really limited to a 32 up front to keep the chain line correct. I run a 32x34 and works well for pretty much everything.