Page 256 of 290 FirstFirst ... 246254255256257258266 ... LastLast
Results 3,826 to 3,840 of 4339
  1. #3826
    Grasshopper
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Siberia
    Posts
    15
    Rep Power
    3
    Anyone here running a CCDB with a 350lb steel spring (or even just a CCDB in general)? I'm interested to know your settings. I'm running:
    • 3 turns of pre-load
    • 2 turns HSC & 5 clicks LSC
    • 3 turns HSR & 10 clicks LSR


    I'm 64kg / 141lbs with gear.
    Last edited by AndySTi; 01-11-2013 at 07:14 PM.

  2. #3827
    Grasshopper RajunCajunNC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    A, A
    Posts
    18
    Rep Power
    3
    300lb steel spring, sag is 25-30%.

    1.5 turns of HSC
    17 clicks of LSC
    .5 turns HSR
    9 clicks LSR

    * Note: all setting turns in from full fast/full open.

  3. #3828
    Grasshopper
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Siberia
    Posts
    15
    Rep Power
    3
    Quote Originally Posted by RajunCajunNC View Post
    300lb steel spring, sag is 25-30%.

    1.5 turns of HSC
    17 clicks of LSC
    .5 turns HSR
    9 clicks LSR

    * Note: all setting turns in from full fast/full open.
    How much do you weigh with gear? I was also on a 300lb steel spring, however, I found it a bit on the soft side. Moving to 350lb has definitely improved things for me.

  4. #3829
    Grasshopper RajunCajunNC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    A, A
    Posts
    18
    Rep Power
    3
    150ish for me. I was running closer to 40% sag with more lsc and hsc, but found the bike to be more stable when things get moving with less sag and a little softer compression tune. Side note also is I run the Boxxer rc with 5% sag up front and compression set 3 clicks from full closed with a med spring. This gives me a stiff bike, but it fells awesome when pushing it.

  5. #3830
    Grasshopper
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    france
    Posts
    13
    Rep Power
    1

  6. #3831
    Grasshopper Grisha's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Germany
    Posts
    28
    Rep Power
    2

    Iron Horse MK3 shock issue

    Hey guys,
    I've got a serious problem with the shock (Flox Float R) in my Iron Horse MK3.
    I used to have huge horizontal play in the lower DW-Link. I fitted spacers between the link and the rear part of the bike and the play was gone.
    But soon my shock started to lose travel, it "sucked itself in" with every ride, no matter how much air I would pump into it until it only had about 1cm of stroke. I thought some seal must be broken and all the air goes into the negative air chamber (I don't really know how a shock exactly works, so I'm not sure if that's really the problem). I thought this may be a result of the horizontal play, as the shock experienced quite a lot of horizontal force.
    So I bought a used one which first worked perfectly, but after a short time of riding (like 5 Minutes) it started to have the exact same problem as the first one.
    I have no clue what could be wrong. I thought maybe the rear of the bike isn't central, but I fitted the same amount of spacers left and right from the link and it looks alright.
    I also ride the shock up-side-down, but I saw this in many pictures of the MK3 and I think it shouldn't make any difference to the shock. I fitted off-set-bushings, but this also shouldn't make any difference.

    I really hope someone can help me, as I like the bike and can't afford to get another one, because I also need a new DH bike.

    Sorry for my bad English, I'm German and they didn't teach us any technical vocabulary in school ^^
    "I can ride my bike with no Handlebar" - Flobots

  7. #3832
    Monkey sundaydoug's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    284
    Rep Power
    3
    Is the shock stuck down? In other words, is it not rebounding to its original position once compressed?

    If so, just google "Fox shock stuck down" and you'll find some info. Apparently it's somewhat common and doesn't mean your shock is ruined, just might need a rebuild.

  8. #3833
    Grasshopper Grisha's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Germany
    Posts
    28
    Rep Power
    2
    Hey,
    thanks, that sounds like it!
    I was wondering why it happens with two different shocks, so I thought something is wrong with the frame, but in another thread here it says this can happen when riding at sub zero temperatures. I should probably try a rock shocks shock, as I mostly use the MK3 in the off season :/
    "I can ride my bike with no Handlebar" - Flobots

  9. #3834
    Grasshopper
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Siberia
    Posts
    15
    Rep Power
    3
    Quote Originally Posted by RajunCajunNC View Post
    150ish for me. I was running closer to 40% sag with more lsc and hsc, but found the bike to be more stable when things get moving with less sag and a little softer compression tune. Side note also is I run the Boxxer rc with 5% sag up front and compression set 3 clicks from full closed with a med spring. This gives me a stiff bike, but it fells awesome when pushing it.
    I'd say give the 350lb spring ago. You're heavier than me with gear and I think it should suite you. The bike will also feel more balanced. My cornering has improved since moving to 350lb and I'm getting decent support from the middle towards the end of the stroke. In regards, to rough sections, my first impressions with the 350lb are positive. With 300lb I was bottoming out frequently and it wasn't pleasant to ride, especially in the rough. Moving to 350lb has put a smile on my face as the ride is much more balanced and for once I'm getting the correct sag. Looking to get some 350lb Ti goodness now.

    In regards to 300lb, my settings were:
    • 3 turns of pre-load
    • 2.5 tuns HSC & 8 clicks LSC
    • 2 turns HSR & 5 clicks LSR
    Last edited by AndySTi; 01-13-2013 at 05:21 PM. Reason: Speeeeling

  10. #3835
    Grasshopper
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    4
    Rep Power
    0
    Hey Udi, and everybody here, what's up?

    I was reading the Sunday thread, and I know it may be kinda old but anyway I wanted to ask. My Sunday developed play in the lower link, where it meets the rear triangle. I thought the play was due to the inner races not reaching the lower link. So I made myself a 0.8mm thick washer in a lathe, and assembled everything back together (new pin, new bearings) and the play seems to be gone, which makes sense. Now, I could buy the locktite bearing retainer that Udi recommended here in the thread, and use it between the pin and the link, but I would rather not do it unless it is necessary, what do you think?

    With the spacer I made, now the inner races clamp the lower link nicely and they all move together (instead of the lower link sliding on the pin like before), but I donīt know if maybe under load there will still be some radial play.

    Your opinion is much appreciated fellow Sunday riders.

    Thanks in advance!

  11. #3836
    Monkey sundaydoug's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    284
    Rep Power
    3
    I would just take it apart and re-assemble with Loctite around the pin and inside of the lower link. I know that I had play in between the link and pin for a couple of seasons before I took it apart and re-assembled it with the Loctite compound. I rode it all season like that and the play hasn't come back.

    My guess is that the play may have caused the bore of the lower link to become just a tiny bit larger, so that even with a new pin play might still develop again. Might as well just get it over with and not have to worry about it.
    Last edited by sundaydoug; 01-23-2013 at 12:24 PM.

  12. #3837
    Turbo Monkey
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    3,213
    Rep Power
    6
    As above, it is not the pin that wears, rather the inside of the lower link. I've never seen a case where the bearing inner race didn't reach the lower link (however it might be possible if there is paint in the bearing seat, or some other defect).

    If the play is gone then maybe just leave it alone, but for next time you disassemble it, it's probably not a bad idea to use the 609 compound because it stops the link rotating on the pivot axle. The reason play often develops in the first place is because those two parts move against each other when they shouldn't, so the retaining compound can be thought of as preventative maintenance as well as a solution to when the play develops.

  13. #3838
    Grasshopper
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    4
    Rep Power
    0
    Well, I don't really know how tight is the original fitting between the pin and the link, but the link doesn't seem to have too much wear, just the natural marks, and the pin goes in as tight as it goes into the bearings (tight but with enough clearance to slide it easily). Anyway, the locktite option seems to be the way to double ensure that I will not have further play develop.
    OK. Is it too difficult to take the pin out after using the 609 compound? Cause that's what I am worried about. The pin I just replace was stuck to the bearings inner race so bad that I had to use a hydraulic press and it still needed a LOT of pressure to come loose.
    So, 609 between the pin and the link, and between the outter bearing races and the rear triangle too, right? (one of my bearings can be placed and removed by hand, doesn't seem to have play, but I think it is at the very starting point to develop play in the future)
    One last thing, I think here in Spain I can only find (without spending 2 weeks looking for it I mean) Loctite 603, not 609, what do you think?

    It is unbelievable that this threads continues, with so much good info and people!

  14. #3839
    Chimp the_maxis_233's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Porto/Portugal
    Posts
    52
    Rep Power
    4
    Quote Originally Posted by juanpkumicho View Post
    I think here in Spain I can only find (without spending 2 weeks looking for it I mean) Loctite 603, not 609, what do you think?

    It is unbelievable that this threads continues, with so much good info and people!
    I bought Loctite 603 (only find this on local shops), but i don't test yet because i am waiting for a brand new dw lower link.

  15. #3840
    Turbo Monkey
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    3,213
    Rep Power
    6
    It will be harder to take the pin out once loctited, but generally just using a longer bolt inserted into the pin (after removing the 4mm-head countersink screws and bearing cap) along with a hammer has broken the 609 bond for me.

    As for 603 I think it will work fine, you can compare datasheets for 603 and 609. From my brief look at those, 603 has a higher bond strength that withstands greater forces - so it may be more difficult to undo as well, which perhaps isn't ideal for you.

    It would be wise to use some of the compound on the outside of the bearing that you can install by hand (presumably you mean in its seat in the frame). The bearing should not slide in and out by hand generally.

    If there is zero play in your current setup perhaps it would be good to just wait, especially if it means you are restricted to the stronger loctite product and are concerned about future disassembly.

Similar Threads

  1. Iron Horse Sunday BB width?
    By Matt D in forum Downhill & Freeride
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 02-28-2007, 05:05 PM
  2. Turner DHR vs Iron Horse Sunday
    By acair422 in forum Downhill & Freeride
    Replies: 66
    Last Post: 01-26-2005, 07:30 PM
  3. new Iron Horse SUNDAY bike
    By G30RG3ryan in forum Downhill & Freeride
    Replies: 23
    Last Post: 09-12-2004, 09:23 PM

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •