Need help with this 10sp crap...

[Lelandjt]

The B screw should be set in the largest cog and so it's close but not interferring. Then if it interfers with shifting into the top gear turn it in till it doesn't (road or DH derailleur avoid this problem). Limit screws should be so the chain goes straight onto the large cog and just outside of smallest. If housing is clean and lubed tension should be easy to set so the chain doean't quite catch on adjacent larger cogs. I've had good luck with all the new Sram stuff I've been working on and V10s have a very short and straight routing that results in low friction and generally good shifting. The middle section should be taught at suspension top-out. The other sections shouldn't be longer than neccessary to avoid pulling the cable.

Is the cable on the right side of the fixing bolt?

This happens sometimes and the clicks in the shifter won't match up with the cassette.

[boylagz]

^ I've set the B screw both at the smallest 11t cog and the largest 25t, no binding/interference at all. Like I said around 8-10mm distance in the smallest cog, and waaay more at the largest.

Thanks a lot for all the input, I appreciate it a lot. Got home super late, but still did a little more tweaking; loosened the cable from the bolt and did the manual derailleur push towards the inside/to the largest cog, the travel is spot on for the whole range of the cassette. It's a little better now, but still not where I want it to be. All shifts to harder cogs are all pretty much smooth now. But shifts to softer gears are still a pain though :| I will pedal the bike around tomorrow and see how shifting is under load. If it's gonna be worse I will get either Dura-Ace or Ultegra.

Thanks again guys.

[Lelandjt]

I think you can back off the B screw some and add some cable tension until upshifts are slow or the chain is rubbing on adjacent larger cogs. With clutch derailleurs downshifts feel heavier and not as clean but that seems to be their nature.

[frango]

I don't want to hijack the thread, but... my question is relate to 10sp drivetrain
I was planning to buy Zee rear mech, replace pulleys to be compatible with 9sp chain, get some 9sp shifter and use it with SLX/Saint 11-28 cassette, I've got...
But, whan I talked about it with friendly Shimano employee, he told it would not work, coz 9sp shifter is not compatible with 10sp rear mech.
Have any1 tried to do it?

[boylagz]

I think you can back off the B screw some and add some cable tension until upshifts are slow or the chain is rubbing on adjacent larger cogs. With clutch derailleurs downshifts feel heavier and not as clean but that seems to be their nature.

You are correct. Downshifts get hard in the last 4 softest gears. Your thumb will hurt, guaranteed. Yea like I said, Ive set it up now that somehow its kinda manageable, but I will still have my lbs look at it today, again, and see whats really up. I am ready to pull the trigger on a DA or Ultegra cassette, ugh this is just frustrating.

[boylagz]

I don't want to hijack the thread, but... my question is relate to 10sp drivetrain
I was planning to buy Zee rear mech, replace pulleys to be compatible with 9sp chain, get some 9sp shifter and use it with SLX/Saint 11-28 cassette, I've got...
But, whan I talked about it with friendly Shimano employee, he told it would not work, coz 9sp shifter is not compatible with 10sp rear mech.
Have any1 tried to do it?

Ive made a sram 10sp rear der work with a 9sp cassette, shifter and chain. Its not perfect, but it can be done. Shifting from the hardest cog to about 4th gear is flawless. From 4 to 1 is where it gets problematic. I didnt care much since I only used the harder gears. I ran a sram pg970 11-26 before in my ghetto 9/10sp drivetrain combo.

[Udi]

I don't want to hijack the thread, but... my question is relate to 10sp drivetrain
I was planning to buy Zee rear mech, replace pulleys to be compatible with 9sp chain, get some 9sp shifter and use it with SLX/Saint 11-28 cassette, I've got...
But, whan I talked about it with friendly Shimano employee, he told it would not work, coz 9sp shifter is not compatible with 10sp rear mech.
Have any1 tried to do it?

That won't work because the new Shimano 10spd mountain mechs/shifters use a different cable actuation ratio to their 9spd gear. Thus if you use a Zee mech, you also need a Shimano 10spd shifter and 10spd cassette.

[dylan s]

My shimano ultegra 10speed cassette came with a tiny metal spacer (maybe a mm thick) to put between the hub and the cassette. Maybe you are in need of one.

[boylagz]

My shimano ultegra 10speed cassette came with a tiny metal spacer (maybe a mm thick) to put between the hub and the cassette. Maybe you are in need of one.

I heard 10sp Shimano cassettes have that spacer. SRAM doesnt.

[slimshady]

I'm going with the bent derailleur hanger approach here. I have a short X9 Type II rear der paired to a PG 1050 11-26 cassette/PC1050 chain and shifting is even smoother than with my previous X9 9sp setup...

You should check your cable and housing too, a lot of mud/grit inside the housing can make the best gruppo shift like crap.

[kgm]

hanger alignment.

[frango]

That won't work because the new Shimano 10spd mountain mechs/shifters use a different cable actuation ratio to their 9spd gear. Thus if you use a Zee mech, you also need a Shimano 10spd shifter and 10spd cassette.

That's bummer
It seems I will stick to Sram for a little longer while and try same money for proper 10sp cassette (maybe reduced to 6-7 gears) and chain (Yaban SL-100CR?) and Zee or even Saint rear mech.

[DirtyMike]

I love these threads.....

Not trying to be mean or be-littling.... but rear mechs are not this complicated....

Start with hanger alignment.... ALL BIKES..... install your mech and chain, start with setting the bscrew... largest cog only..... thats the only place it matters.... Set your minit screws... manually shift the mech from smallest to largest and back a few times to be sure the limits are good.... Install your cbale and make your fine tune adjustments....... it is that easy



Oh, forgot one thing...... Start off with aprts that were actually intended for the application your using them in...

[Ringer]

Sense we are on the 10 speed topic - Who has been snapping WAY more cables on SRAM equipped 10 speed derailleurs? Hardly any riding time on my new 10 speed setup and already snapping cables. Looks like while the previous 9 speed parts used a plastic rollamajig section to redirect the cable the 10 speed uses an aluminum piece that really digs into the cable. Similar problem anyone? If it keeps up - bye bye SRAM

[pillete]

I had the same issue you are describing, everything was Sram brand new, checked the hanger alignment, chainline, cables, etc and between me and 3 other VERY experienced mechanics we were not able to get it to shift properly. Contacted Sram and the sent me a new derailleur and still didn't work. The only way we got it to work was by replacing the chain and cassette with Shimano Ultegra parts. I hope this helps.