|
-
Grasshopper
- Rep Power
- 2
Stripping paint of frame
Hi,
Maybe this has been covered recently - but I am just checking for updates.
I have a new Aluminum frame I want to strip the paint off. I love the frame - HATE the paint (yes silly I know).
So once all the headset cups and pivot bearings and stuff removed - what is the best process to remove the paint. I don't mind paying a bit to take it to a paint shop, but what is the best way?
Thanks
Advertisement - Log in or Register to hide this ad
-
brand new frame or new to you? because stripping the paint voids the warranty for many manufacturers.
set your sarcasm meter to Level 4:butt hurt
-
Grasshopper
- Rep Power
- 2
Yeah its new. I know it voids the warranty, but I am ok with that. I was given it - and have ties to the company so no worries in that regard. Just hate the color... Will leave it raw or maybe have it painted some normal color and put manufacturer stickers back on.
-
In that case... aircraft stripper.
(I always throw the warranty part out as a disclaimer)
-
-
Chimp
- Rep Power
- 3
Like jon said, Air craft stripper. Find your local auto body paint supply, a brand named klean strip makes some good stuff, you will probably need a quart. get some cheap throw away brushes(+-$1ea) there, some thick gloves(+-$10) for the job, possibly a disposable respirator(>$20) and a thick garbage bag.
You dont NEED all this stuff but it will keep you safe from fumes and chemical burns.
Preferably do this outside or in a very well ventilated area, this stuff is POTENT. Cut the garbage bag so it folds open. Place parts on half the bag, apply stripper liberally with brush, pay close attention to the nooks and tight areas. they seem to hold in to paint and powder coat the best. Make sure the parts are covered thoroughly with the stripper, fold the other half of the bag back over the parts ASAP. I usually check back in 20 minutes, see the parts or areas that havent "taken" as well and reapply. I usually have to do the entire process twice to get it as raw as I like.
I just realized I wrote all this and it is listed on their website more less. haha
I work for a paint supply house. these should be pretty close prices. You can find this stuff at Walmart, Autozone etc but it is often more expensive than a paint supply.
http://www.wmbarr.com/product.aspx?catid=33&prodid=136
read this!
http://www.wmbarr.com/ProductFiles/A...%2025%2009.pdf
-
Monkey
- Rep Power
- 5
Just take it to the powder coater and let them do it. Won't change the price. $100 is a good price for strip and powder. Make sure you are clear about what needs to be plugged and masked. Most shops dip anyway, regardless if you strip it first, to prep for powder. And hit with the media blaster to give slight texture so powder sticks better.
Spending $20 on stripper, $10 on wire brush & scotch brite pads, $20 for good rubber gloves, and $30 on a decent respirator, and huffing gnarly fumes for hours is a total waste of money.
Last edited by thad; 02-18-2013 at 11:40 PM.
-
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...1#.USO2kmd41hx
Wear RUBBER LATEX GLOVES not nitrile. Nitrile WILL MELT when mixed with paint stripper. Latex will not. Dish gloves were sufficient in my experience.
You will likely need two cans, maybe more. Don't get the natural, citrus based stuff. Sorry nature, but it doesn't work nearly as well (basically at all). I didn't use a respirator, but I worked outside in the yard. You will need a couple of scrubbers, the brillo pad type deals held up well. If you apply it liberally, the paint will fall right off and a little blast with a hose will completely neutralize it.
I stripped my Sunday this way and it came out very clean. The finish held up well with no corrosion over half a year or so.
Please see the DH Forum FAQ
Here
For questions like "What's a good trail bike for a DHer?"
-
Monkey
- Rep Power
- 4
I've used aircraft stripper on a Specialized frame, not worth it...lots of wire brushing and chemical burns.
Recently I used Citristrip on powder coated white Stan's rims, totally worth it. Did it in my 7'x7' laundry room, little ventilation, no chemical burns, fell right off.
Honesty, I'd like to think that the hard chemicals would work better, but that's not what I've found. I'd recommend CitriStrip.
-
Citristrip was exactly what I was talking about. It did NOT work for the powdercoat on my Ironhorse, it was exactly the opposite of your experience.
might be something with the powdercoat/construction of frames? The IHs were pretty poorly produced, I found bondo underneath.
Please see the DH Forum FAQ
Here
For questions like "What's a good trail bike for a DHer?"
-
Grasshopper
- Rep Power
- 2
Thanks everyone. I will try this. Probably do it myself first, but if it doesn't work will take it to a paint shop like mentioned by 'thad'.
I think I am going to see what it looks like just 'raw'. I assume polishing is needed - which is fine, but what about 'clearcoating' or something?
Once is it stripped as described above - what is next? Polishing I assume (hard labour for sure) but probably not to complex - but then what?
Thanks
-
Monkey
- Rep Power
- 4
Just my two cents.
Assuming that it is powder coat you are trying to remove, I have had good luck with gasket removal chemicals. Permatex makes a good product, but there are many others that work well.
I have a hotwater pressure washer that really takes the paint off too after applying the stripper, so unless you have a Hotsy, I would recommend taking it to a car was to clean the frame up after stripping.
-
Turbo Monkey
- Rep Power
- 5
I actually started in on this tonight on my '09 SX Trail. I picked up some of the aircraft stripper. So far, it's certainly not as easy as just spraying the crap on and watching the paint fall off. I think I'm on my 3rd coat so far. Gone through half a can already and I haven't even gotten to the main triangle yet.
-
Turbo Monkey
- Rep Power
- 5
 Originally Posted by Sandwich
I stripped my Sunday this way and it came out very clean. The finish held up well with no corrosion over half a year or so.
No clearcoat?
-
Monkey
- Rep Power
- 4
screw kleen strip. that stuff has always taken me several tries, nasty to work with, and always leaves flecks of paint in really hard to reach places. I've used it a LOT in the past, stripped motorcycle frames, tanks, etc. last time I stripped a bike frame I took it to the powdercoating shop and had them sandblast it. if the shop is worth a sh1t they will have a chemical dip tank too for things that can't be blasted. that way you can have your clean bare aluminum and not a matte sandblasted look. i think I paid $40 to have a sunday dipped? forget trying to strip all the nooks and crannies on that thing. considering it takes several hours plus a few bucks for the kleen strip you are money ahead to have it done by a pro IMHO.
Last edited by Sonic Reducer; 02-21-2013 at 10:51 PM.
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules
|
70 members and 899 guests
0110-M-P,
?????,
Andrey,
bdamschen,
bean,
Beef Supreme,
blindboxx2334,
boylagz,
cableguy,
curtmuss,
Dartman,
Dox,
eric strt6,
FCLinder,
flanker,
FlipSide,
fortenndu,
Gary,
gemini2k,
General Lee,
HAB,
Hacktastic,
hellonasty,
Hermes475,
Hydesg,
I Are Baboon,
Ipsec,
jasonvelocity,
Jeremy R,
JimLad,
joe shabadoo,
joeg,
kazlx,
mandown,
muddyfox,
Nick,
nmn25,
OGRipper,
Polandspring88,
Quo Fan,
RaindogT,
rockofullr,
Routier07,
Salami,
Sandro,
serbdog,
sittingduck,
SkullCrack,
smirph,
stevew,
StyledAirtime,
trib,
velocipedist,
Whoops,
wiscodh,
wood booger,
Wumpus,
Most users ever online was 2,429, 10-18-2011 at 10:04 PM.
|
Bookmarks