Formula T1 brakes:Differences between 2013-2013 models.

[SCARY]

My lbs ordered them and the bti catalog is 2012,so I don't know what'll show up.Id rather get the the newest model if I'm paying this much for them,but if there's no real difference,I don't care,I guess.
Hope nobody picks on me for having last years brakes.

[canadmos]

okidoki

[Lelandjt]

Same lever. New caliper pistons, seals, body cap (the gold bit on the back). The result is slightly longer lever throw than '11/'12 but better rotor/pad clearance. I'm probably gonna pay the $100 per set to have my '11s upgraded as they require a PERFECTLY straight rotor to not rub at all and with a tight bleed have a shorter lever throw than necessary. I've always run them with a slightly soft bleed to maximize clearance and make them a little less "light switchy" so I think the new parts with a tight bleed will suit me well. You have to send them to Formula USA, they won't send the parts out.

So yeah, if I bought any Formula brake in February 2013 and got a '12 model I'd be pissed unless they were $150 cheaper. If they are '12s call Formula before mounting them and maybe they'll do the upgrade for free. Unless a really short lever throw is preferable to drag-free, silent brakes.

Also, they don't usually come with rotors so you have a choice here. I've been using the Formula rotors and they're very light but the Shimano Ice-Techs may handle heat and impacts better (stay straighter) and those new Ketel Carbons are intriguing.

[Tomasis]

how T1 compares to other Formula brakes? Oval, One are a bit expensive for me. Do T1 work for DH, Enduro?

[Lelandjt]

The Ones work great for DH and enduro. I've had them on my DH and enduro bikes (and R1s on my XC bike) for over 2 years. I've never wanted more power but maybe if you're closer to 200lb the new oval DH brake would be nice.

[Tomasis]

I weigh 75kg so I'd look for The one (hopefully discounted). Is it not longer for year 2013 for the One? Oddly I find them on OEM bikes 2013 as Mondraker. Btw T1 is not recommended?

[SCARY]

I actually like the "light switchy" thing with a short lever throw.So,I looks like the 12's would be better anyway.Cool.

[Lelandjt]

Btw T1 is not recommended?

T1=The One
They're available with or without the bite point adjustment barrel, reach adjustment dial, and quick-disonnect couplings in many colors so don't get confused by looks.

[jvnixon]

Here's some more info on the details of the '13 T1 that should help explain some of the changes Lelandjt was talking about like the pad roll-back. The upgrade from a '12 to a '13 would require a new caliper to my knowledge so it wouldn't be a quick fix.

http://www.sicklines.com/2012/09/10/...35-29er-model/

[Lelandjt]

I had just gotten off the phone with Formula when I posted. I wrote exactly what he said. It's not "quick" because they won't send the parts out, you have to send the caliper or complete brake to them. Parts (seals, pistons, piston cap) are $35 and if you've sent the complete brake and want it bled after the swap that's $15. So $100 per set for the upgrade.

[Tomasis]

Lelandjt, the upgrade applies for 10' brakes too? T1 - the one, it makes sense

[Lelandjt]

Uh, I think '10 was the first year for this caliper? It had a different lever but the same caliper? If so then yes, available.