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  1. #1
    Turbo Monkey Hacktastic's Avatar
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    Enduro vs Rune vs Yeti SB66 vs ?

    I ride a 2010 Enduro Expert now. My only real gripe with the frame is the lack of shock options, due to the proprietary Specialized "Fvck You" Link. I'd like to be able to swap on a good coil shock or DH air shock occasionally. The Evo links from Specialized seem to be either unobtainable, or insanely expensive, and they only work with an RC2 for an Enduro apparently.

    I'm 6', a little long in the torso and wide in the shoulders, relatively. Running a 50mm stem I've often thought I could almost go for an XL Enduro frame (I ride a L now).

    Can anyone compare these 3 frames? Mostly interested in feedback on geo differences and durability. I can probably get the best pricing on the Banshee. Also interested in other suggestions for aggressive 6" frames.
    "It won't happen again. I can promise you that. Willie here has low blood sugar. That's all."

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  3. #2
    Turbo Monkey
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    I am 6'1 and a bit long in the torso as well, and while I ride a an L, I would suggest an XL Nomad Carbon. Mine is the first iteration of the Carbon, but nothing has really changed since the introduction. I have had the bike longer than any other that I have owned and have tinkered with parts quite a bit, and honestly I am thrilled with my existing setup of a Lyrik 170 up front and RC4 with the Push link out back.

    Some people may whine about bearing issues on SC frames sometimes, but I can assure you that those are concerns from a looooong time ago. SC has created possibly the best bearing system that I have ever seen, and I have not had to replace a single bearing despite riding the bike year round in PNW conditions since I got it in mid-late 2010. I take care of my bikes, but this things has seen a number of days running Garbo laps at Whistler without so much as a hiccup. The frame itself is rock solid and isn't showing any signs of significant wear whatsoever either.

    It is a very aggressive bike when ridden hard. The 170mm fork tipped the geo back just a tad, though at Whistler I sometimes wish it was 0.5-1 degree slacker. The Push link has been the big factor - I really didn't like the bike for anything but trail riding with the stock RP23. I immediately picked up a Push link and simply bolted a stock RC4 to it (no Push tuning) - the bike was an entirely new ride. I am getting my shock Push'd right now as it needed a rebuild, so I can only assume that the ride will get that much better.

    I can't say I have ridden the new Banshee, which I have heard is awesome, but I can give some geo comparisons to the Specialized. I personally think that Specialized's geometry suits me better as Santa Cruz tends to run short top tubes. The large Nomad has been a bit short at times, and I do often question whether an XL would be a better fit, but the short frame suits some of the steep and tight terrain that I ride so I haven't bothered to change. I personally feel that the Nomad puts you in a better pedaling position than the Enduro, and both bikes have an excellent "in-the-bike" feel.
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  4. #3
    Turbo Monkey Hacktastic's Avatar
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    Excellent info. Thank you!
    "It won't happen again. I can promise you that. Willie here has low blood sugar. That's all."

  5. #4
    Turbo Monkey Hacktastic's Avatar
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    Buying an extra link to be able to run anything besides the OEM shock is somewhat of a turn off for me though. I'm already in that boat, and that's the driving reason for me to change.

    What stem length do you run on your L? What's the head angle with a 170mm fork?
    "It won't happen again. I can promise you that. Willie here has low blood sugar. That's all."

  6. #5
    Monkey toowacky's Avatar
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    FWIW, here are some thoughts from a buddy who thoroughly flogs his bikes, was on a v1 and v1.5 Rune, then SB-66, now a v2 Rune. In general, his impressions were SB66 is more "trail" and Rune v2 is the "burly do-everything" rig. He's a bit shorter than you, but this might be of interest, pulled up some comments from some emails when he was deciding on sizing:

    "I test rode two Rune V2's (medium and large) yesterday just around the house while on home-arrest by wife for general sizing and feel tests. Both bikes rode great with nice, smooth, yet highly effecient pedalling suspension and frame looks to be quite well built and stout where it needs to be, but doesn't feel like a tank at all (Kevin's large V2 with coil 170 fork, dropper post, XT parts was only 31.4 lbs, whereas my SB66 is 32.8 lbs w/out dropper post and air fork). I am still a bit baffled on sizing as the large V2 is a good inch longer (wheelbase, reach) than my SB66 and large V1 Rune was. Whereas the medium V2 Rune is the same length (wheelbase, reach), but 1 inch shorter in height and 1" shorter top tube with me having to run 11.5-12" (crazy tall) of exposed seatpost in optimal climb position for enought leg extension without straining the back. With post down in preferred descent position, size medium felt pretty darn good. So a bit baffled in sizing still as I kind of need large sizing for most comfort while climbing and medium for preferred sizing while descending. Tough call as I typically spend about 2/3-3/4 of my time climbing, but I live for the descents and want the bike the be most ideal in fit and feel for that. Any suggestions , or still go large? I am only 5'10" now (was 5'11" due degenerating low back discs), but am fairly short waisted with longer legs and why I prefer running pretty short stems (<50mm) on most bikes that aren't way too small."
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  7. #6
    Hey little girl, do you want some candy? Zark's Avatar
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    Are you thinking frame only or complete? 26"? Assuming that here are my suggestions/ideas. My 2010 enduro has been the best mountain bike I've had, tough shoes to fill. The rune looks like a great option, but I don't have much experience with them.
    Transition Covert.
    Intense tracer 2 or uzzi if you want 170mm.
    Santa Cruz Nomad.
    Cove G Spot.
    SBMTV Intense-Bombers

  8. #7
    Hey little girl, do you want some candy? Zark's Avatar
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    Are you thinking frame only or complete? 26"? Assuming that here are my suggestions/ideas. My 2010 enduro has been the best mountain bike I've had, tough shoes to fill. The rune looks like a great option, but I don't have much experience with them.
    Transition Covert.
    Intense tracer 2 or uzzi if you want 170mm.
    Santa Cruz Nomad.
    Cove G Spot.
    SBMTV Intense-Bombers

  9. #8
    Monkey
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hacktastic View Post
    I ride a 2010 Enduro Expert now. My only real gripe with the frame is the lack of shock options, due to the proprietary Specialized "Fvck You" Link. I'd like to be able to swap on a good coil shock or DH air shock occasionally. The Evo links from Specialized seem to be either unobtainable, or insanely expensive, and they only work with an RC2 for an Enduro apparently.

    I'm 6', a little long in the torso and wide in the shoulders, relatively. Running a 50mm stem I've often thought I could almost go for an XL Enduro frame (I ride a L now).

    Can anyone compare these 3 frames? Mostly interested in feedback on geo differences and durability. I can probably get the best pricing on the Banshee. Also interested in other suggestions for aggressive 6" frames.
    You may want to think about the Ibis Mojo HDR or the SC Bronson. I love my Ibis and think it is one of the best bikes out there -- at least for me. The SC Bronson also has got some great feedback from people I know. However, different bikes suit different people so you got to take people's advice with a grain of salt. Go out and do some test rides.
    My other bike is a duc

  10. #9
    Monkey canadmos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by toowacky View Post
    Kevin's large V2 with coil 170 fork, dropper post, XT parts was only 31.4 lbs, whereas my SB66 is 32.8 lbs w/out dropper post and air fork).
    That's crazy, my Spitfire is probably 36 pounds. One thing to note about the Banshee's, the entire drop outs on both sides come off, so you can put whatever sized wheel and axle you want on there. Super easy to change too. I'm sure the Spitfire and Rune are pretty similar, besides the suspension travel and I rode mine down Bromont with no major issues. The thing just goes and goes...

  11. #10
    Turbo Monkey Hacktastic's Avatar
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    I'm thinking frame only. Frameset only would be preferred actually. I'm running an X-Fusion Vengeance HLR DLA fork which I love. Ideally I'd have an O2 RCX rear shock and a Vector Air to swap back and forth, or maybe just a Vector Air.

    Like I said, I REALLY like this Enduro frame. I have no complaints about the suspension or handling or whatever. The only thing wrong with it is the stupid link, which is a pretty big dickslap from Specialized, especially for a bike whose entire platform is versatility.

    Also looking to stick out the 26" thing for as long as I possibly can. Having a frame that could accept either would make this seemingly inevitable transition easier though.

    I thought about the Ibis too. Aren't those sort of steep in the head angle? At some point I MAY sell my downhill bike (Banshee Legend), so a 6" bike that I can rally like a DH bike is somewhat of a priority. Which is why I like the Enduro so much.
    "It won't happen again. I can promise you that. Willie here has low blood sugar. That's all."

  12. #11
    Monkey
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    vs. dabomb cherry bomb 6 (26)

    any reviews? (labeled as FR), is it good for enduro?
    It's cheap for a brand new frame set, with a X-fusion shock,
    67 deg HA, nomad look alike.

    I might get one this X'mas.

    http://www.dabombbike.com/cherry_bomb6.html

  13. #12
    Turbo Monkey
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    I currently own an SB66 Carbon and came off an Enduro. The 66 is very similar in terms of geometry with the key exception of having quite a slack seat tube angle (not great for steep technical climbs, which is all we really have here in Whistler) and relies on having a travel adjust fork to keep the front wheel down. The 66 pedals more efficiently and is a lot more playful, but that playfulness comes from the linearity of the suspension and also means it doesn't have the same small bump compliance the Enduro has. The head angle is also very slightly steeper (with a 160mm 36 on both), but the difference there is so minor that I wouldn't say it's worth considering (and I'm a sucker for slack angles). The build quality of the 66 makes the Enduro (a very well-built bike) look relatively poor - even after 6 months of hard riding my frame doesn't creak at all, which I'm very impressed with. All told, I can't really find any serious fault with the Yeti unless you spend an awful lot of time in your 24-36 whilst still hammering away on the shifter hoping a lower gear will miraculously appear (which I do), and for some reason don't spring for a travel adjust fork after dropping $bazillions on the rest of the bike. If they'd just steepen the seat angle (and move the front derailleur mount forward a bit so it didn't rub in the big/big combinations so easily) it'd be pretty well flawless. For someone my size (220lbs right now) to have ridden it this long, in this place, without breaking it also says a lot for the construction. I think that overall, it's the most impressive bike Yeti has ever produced.
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  14. #13
    Part of the unwashed, middle-American horde stoney's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve M View Post
    I currently own an SB66 Carbon and came off an Enduro. The 66 is very similar in terms of geometry with the key exception of having quite a slack seat tube angle (not great for steep technical climbs, which is all we really have here in Whistler) and relies on having a travel adjust fork to keep the front wheel down. The 66 pedals more efficiently and is a lot more playful, but that playfulness comes from the linearity of the suspension and also means it doesn't have the same small bump compliance the Enduro has. The head angle is also very slightly steeper (with a 160mm 36 on both), but the difference there is so minor that I wouldn't say it's worth considering (and I'm a sucker for slack angles). The build quality of the 66 makes the Enduro (a very well-built bike) look relatively poor - even after 6 months of hard riding my frame doesn't creak at all, which I'm very impressed with. All told, I can't really find any serious fault with the Yeti unless you spend an awful lot of time in your 24-36 whilst still hammering away on the shifter hoping a lower gear will miraculously appear (which I do), and for some reason don't spring for a travel adjust fork after dropping $bazillions on the rest of the bike. If they'd just steepen the seat angle (and move the front derailleur mount forward a bit so it didn't rub in the big/big combinations so easily) it'd be pretty well flawless. For someone my size (220lbs right now) to have ridden it this long, in this place, without breaking it also says a lot for the construction. I think that overall, it's the most impressive bike Yeti has ever produced.
    This. At 6', you should be looking at a large. As for the limited "burly, all-mountain" ability, I disagree. I ride that as a downhill bike, and with some limitations (HA and travel), it has done pretty damn well. I'm not nice on bikes and the SB is confidently stable running a 160mm 36.

  15. #14
    Turbo Monkey profro's Avatar
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    I have a 2010 Carbon Enduro and now have a SB66.

    I never jived with the Enduro and found it to be a terrible peddler. Something about it zapped my confidence to dive into technical sections and corner confidently. Not sure if it was my years of riding a different style of bike or if it was indeed the Enduro.

    After breaking the carbon Enduro I grabbed a SB66 and I immediately realized it was the Enduro and not so much me. I know a lot of people ride Enduros and absolutely rip on them. But something about it and me didn't jive. Once I got on the SB66 I was elated to remember what it felt like to dive into nasty technical sections and not grab a handful of brake. The long top tube and suspension platform work great for me. While its not the most plush bike out there it can handle some aggression. While the geo is great for DH, I am impressed with how well it pedals. Its very efficient. I am heading to Snowshoe with mine next weekend for some lift assisted riding. My only current complaint is that the Fox CTD gets a little over whelmed by repeated big hits. It could use some more high speed compression.

  16. #15
    Turbo Monkey Jm_'s Avatar
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    Can't you slap a CCDB in the enduro?
    Do you even race bro?

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