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Advantages/Disadvantages of a longer TT
So here is a question for those of you who know bike sizing stuff. I am 5.11, and usually right between sizes. Whats the deal with TT measurements (or reach for that matter) I generally believed that you got the biggest bike you could, since it was more stable, but as the years have gone past, i have now switched to small bikes. Medium Demo 8, Large jedi (more of a medium) Small superco (with pedal/front tire overlap) and this year, a "large" (medium) zerode. I always run a short 45 stem, because each time i try something bigger, it feels too long and wacky. Next year im lookin at bikes, and i am wondering, do i get the super short bikes i like, or would it be beneficial to ride a longer TT.
FWIW, i love my medium zerode, but i am tossing the idea of a real large around in my head since i can go either way.
EDIT-will a longer TT improve front tire traction? I tend to ride real far back on the bike, similar to Brendog's type of posture.


Last edited by demo 9; 12-06-2012 at 08:59 PM.
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Monkey
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I recently switched from a 2010 demo 8 (medium) to a yeti 303 WC (medium) and found my riding got substantially better going to a bike with a shorter top tube.
So after this my thoughts are that a long bike might feel a little more stable at speed but a shorter top tube will allow you to place more weight on your front wheel, giving you more traction and better handling in pretty much every situation.
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Chimp
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Well your first issue is that you attached your number plate to the handlebars and its not level. But in response to b.utters, isnt that backwards? shorter top tube pushes you into a more upright position, putting your weight more centered/rearward position whereas a longer top tube/reach puts you in a more crouched "attack" position with weight over the front tire. I personally prefer a longer reach, feel it allows more control and front tire traction. But in the end its just about what makes you comfortable right?
Last edited by NwRider; 12-07-2012 at 07:20 AM.
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Monkey
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if you sit far back in rear, you're able to press the weight on front end more without changing your position thus more traction from front wheel if we talk about smaller bikes.
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Shorter TT: More mobility/easier to lean back. The weight should be closer to the front wheel.
Longer TT : more stability not only due to the wheelbase but your chest being lower which weighs a lot hence your CoG being lower. On the same time the Cog if further away from the bars and the front wheel.
 Originally Posted by ska todd
Bacon is a universal. Like duct tape, zip ties, or a bigger hammer it can fix anything!
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The reason i ask is because i want to get more traction out of the front, mainly because if u can turn ur front u can turn your back (around here) I am riding at a great level, and doing well, but i see many of my competitors riding clipped in and over the front, every time i lean over the front, i feel like im going to crash. I am way to chicken-**** to ride the front of the bike, so i was wondering if a longer TT was the secret? I am 90% happy with my riding right now, but 100% displeased that i can be beaten by people leaning forwards?
I do very well on the raw fast wide open tracks, Windham WC, platty stuff, and a few of the more "raw" mtn creek tracks, i get killed on the tight twisty "xc like" tracks
Last edited by demo 9; 12-07-2012 at 04:53 PM.
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Get some clicky pedals.
They're a hell of a lot cheaper than a frame.
Last edited by kidwoo; 12-07-2012 at 05:04 PM.
Strava: turn off your dork logger when you're not on sanctioned trails, numbnuts.
Switchacks = woodland based crimes against humanity
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 Originally Posted by kidwoo
Get some clicky pedals.
They're a hell of a lot cheaper than a frame.
have em-hate em
frame happens regardless, just a matter of what way i should go
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A longer front end is not going to help you get over the front end. It's going to do the exact opposite.
Stiffen up that fork and just give'r.
Strava: turn off your dork logger when you're not on sanctioned trails, numbnuts.
Switchacks = woodland based crimes against humanity
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 Originally Posted by kidwoo
A longer front end is not going to help you get over the front end. It's going to do the exact opposite.
Stiffen up that fork and just give'r.
Agreed.
I'm the same height(light though). Loved the small Zerode for fun, but preferred my medium. I'd not consider the large.
Why do you want to weigh the front? Is your front tyre wandering? If your not riding often enough to dominate the front by riding aggressively, maybe try a stock headset to steepen it up until more confident.
It could be a number of things from rear shock settings, to spring weight(front or rear), To bar width.
Lazier or steeper headangle could help, depending on the reason you're not getting forward. If it's lack of confidence, try lazier. Are your forks as short as they can be? You could play with raising and lowering them to see if a head angle change would help, or heavier/softer rear setting. Is your sag right?
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 Originally Posted by no skid marks
Agreed.
I'm the same height(light though). Loved the small Zerode for fun, but preferred my medium. I'd not consider the large.
Why do you want to weigh the front? Is your front tyre wandering? If your not riding often enough to dominate the front by riding aggressively, maybe try a stock headset to steepen it up until more confident.
It could be a number of things from rear shock settings, to spring weight(front or rear), To bar width.
Lazier or steeper headangle could help, depending on the reason you're not getting forward. If it's lack of confidence, try lazier. Are your forks as short as they can be? You could play with raising and lowering them to see if a head angle change would help, or heavier/softer rear setting. Is your sag right?
I am confident, and ride a good amount, but from what i can tell, the reason i cant shave more time off, isnt because i dont have the balls to push it, its because i cant get the front to hook up, i am scared **** of the front wheel, and WONT ride it because if u are over the front, and wash out, your stuffing your face, i ride the rear and use the rear wheel to steer (similar to how you turn in a manual) so i can avoid going OTB and hurting myself. This has gotten me very far, however, i see guys like Gwin and minaar just riding as if they are on flat ground.
I guess the situation i am displeased with is just general turns, i ride the same fork/tire/basic HA as the rest of the field, but they can turn at 20mph, and i can only turn at 18mph because at 18.5 the front washes out, the big similarity i can find is that they are clipped in and over the front, i am one of the only flat riders in the pro field at most events. I make up my time on the loose turns and the straights, but i feel i like in the corners.
This is a turn in a recent track that i had trouble making, if i turned the wheel more in the photo, i would wash out, eveyr time-i had to go slower bcause of this.

similar situation here

This is the typical riding position i end up in when im ridin fast, i like to get behind the fork.
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blue kit at 1.06, cant really see it but i wash the front, same situation in many corners. guy ahead and behind did it fine, and they were not pushing it.
https://vimeo.com/50658980
no crahes, but you can see the rearward bias-almost all shots on the zerode are me
https://vimeo.com/48340848
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F#@* the Boxxers off. Get some 888s. What brakes are you running? play with front tyre pressures. So many things could help. What size bike were you faster on? All your bikes have had different geo, so it's not a clear cut answer, but still worth looking at.
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^ boxxers not mine, that was a borrowed bike-im also a boxxer hater, I am fastest on the current "large" zerode, by alot, but i dont feel as good in corners that dont have a "catch" to them. I figured longer TT, means im reaching farthur, means its pulling my body forwards, making more weight on the front? Why would a shorter one be better?
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Fast people don't ride over the front most of the time, they ride centered. Super tight turns are about the only place you really need to be truly over the front end to get your tires to bite. But slacker headangles and lower bottom brackets are all about allowing you to ride centered.....not over the front but not feeling like you need to hang your ass out over the rear either.
A shorter bike weights the front better when you're centered.....not necessarily gets you over the front end.
Tires are important.
Looking at those pics of you, you're right. Get them nipples over that stem son! 
In the few instances where you'll truly benefit from being more over the front end, this causes your front tire to bite hard and your rear to slide a bit (talking REALLY tight turns here) and actually help you make the turn. This is most of what that little waggy rear end shlt mountain bikers call roost is from......weighting the front wheel significantly.
Again......tires are important.
Last edited by kidwoo; 12-07-2012 at 06:07 PM.
Strava: turn off your dork logger when you're not on sanctioned trails, numbnuts.
Switchacks = woodland based crimes against humanity
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