Retensioning a wheel - seeking advice/step by step instructions

[MMcG]

Okay so my rear sun singletrack has some loose spokes and I want to get it back in to proper tension without screwing up the entire wheel.

Can anyone run me through a step by step process to do this correctly so I don't f things up more while trying to make things better?

It would be very useful information to have and to learn since I'm now doing a lot of urban riding on this particular wheel set.

Thanks in advance!

Mark

[Westy]

Here is how I do it.

1-Start by tightening the loose spokes so they are as tight as the other around it. Pluck it like a guitar string and compare tones to get things close.

2-True the wheel to get things nice round and wobble free.

3-Tighten each spoke 1/4 or 1/2 turn.

4-Compare spoke tension with a good wheel with the pluck method.

repeat 2-4 until everything is nice and tight.

[DßR]

All you need is in here:
http://www.execulink.com/~dtierney/wmc/faq.htm#WTQ1

Start by backing out all the nipples until one thread is showing, then tension back up, so you can maintain tension.


Keep a good eye on the wheels - Singletracks are extremely sensitive to poor tension, you slack off on it for a bit and those suckers will taco on you in a second.

Since those rims are so easy to flat-spot, you may find that even though all the spokes have the same number of turns, some are still very loose - this means you have a big flat spot. At this point, IMHO, it's better for you to have even spoke tension than a true wheel, keep the wobble it'll be stronger in the end.

[MMcG]

Originally posted by DßR
All you need is in here:
http://www.execulink.com/~dtierney/wmc/faq.htm#WTQ1

Start by backing out all the nipples until one thread is showing, then tension back up, so you can maintain tension.


Keep a good eye on the wheels - Singletracks are extremely sensitive to poor tension, you slack off on it for a bit and those suckers will taco on you in a second.

Since those rims are so easy to flat-spot, you may find that even though all the spokes have the same number of turns, some are still very loose - this means you have a big flat spot. At this point, IMHO, it's better for you to have even spoke tension than a true wheel, keep the wobble it'll be stronger in the end.

Thanks man!

I already have a little hop in the front - so we'll see on the rear.....I don't mind a little wobble as long as the wheels hold up for a fair amount of time.

I didn't spend a lot on em.

[Repack]

I agree 100% with DBR about the tension. Tension is far more important to wheel strength than true/roundness. I start by doing some quick truing/tensioning just to get the spokes at about the same tension. Then you want to tension every 4th spoke. Start with the first one after the valve stem. The stem is perfect for reference. Tighten every 4th spoke by the same amount of turn(s). Keep in mind that after the first pass it may feel like nothing has been accomplished, but as you go, all those 1/4 or 1/2 turns start to add up. It will take you 4 revolutions to do all the spokes. Doing it this way will ensure that the tension is equally distributed across the entire rim. If you start at the stem and do each spoke in succession, you will get a wheel that is out of round.