Give me some ideas to lighten this thing up!

[jebfour]

Ok monkeys.....here is the bike that I ride for XC/trail riding:

http://www.specialized.com/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=5771&JServSessionIdroot=ynzdvc5dh8.j27003

This thing weighs in around 30 lbs. and in my opinion that's just too much for a XC bike. Can someone give me some ideas on how to lighten this thing up? I'd (ideally) like to get it around 25 lbs.

Thanks!

jeb4

[DßR]

light=expensive

Fork - SID World Cup
Cranks/bb - XTR
Rims - x317 w/Hugi hubs
Tires - lite, i dunno
Saddle - Flite Ti
Stem - thomson
Bars - Easton carbon

It's very expensive to get a FS bike down around 25....

[jebfour]

Originally posted by DßR
light=expensive

Fork - SID World Cup
Cranks/bb - XTR
Rims - x317 w/Hugi hubs
Tires - lite, i dunno
Saddle - Flite Ti
Stem - thomson
Bars - Easton carbon

It's very expensive to get a FS bike down around 25....

A Thomson seatpost should be here in a few days and a Thomson stem is on my "to buy list"

Not to sound like a total gram weenie, but what the hell.........how much weight do you think I could drop by going to the XTR BB and Cranks? I was checking them out not long ago...(sweet)

[DßR]

Originally posted by jeb4
Not to sound like a total gram weenie, but what the hell.........how much weight do you think I could drop by going to the XTR BB and Cranks? I was checking them out not long ago...(sweet)

Actually, a lot. The strongarm cranks and whatever that BB is probably can't touch the new XTR's for lightness, I think they're the lightest BB/crank combo out there. Probably drop a couple hundred grams that way....


Edit - okay, just checked out the weightweenies page - http://weightweenies.starbike.com/listings.php and the entire XTR crankset/BB weighs just under 800g. The Spec. crankarms alone are in the 700g range, the BB is gonna be close to 300g. So yeah, a couple hundred grams like I said....(that's half a pound, nothing to sneeze at)

[rockracing]

light tires like pythons.....about 480-490g each. with light weight tubes. You could save like 300g at the wheels, get Titec pork rinds grips (16g pair) and remove the gear displays (save about 24g), that could be 100g depending what grips you hav now, lock-ons ?

handlebars ?? on a stock bike there are lots of cheap ways too lose weight as they alwasy skimp on stuff, like cassette, handlebars, BB etc.

I changed from HG50 cassete to sram 9.0 and saved nearly 150g.

swoped bars and saved 100g....it adds up and the cost doesn't have to add up too much.

[Mike B.]

ZTR355 rims/American Classic hubs can be built under 1400g for $525 - your rear wheel probably weighs that much.

FRM crankset and BB, a better value at a decent weight would be Truvativ Stylo Team cranks with the FRM BB

Easton carbon post/bar, I personally ride nothing but Thomson posts though.

Ritchey WCS stem

Kenda Karma Pro Stick-E tires can be found around 460g or less


I'm not a huge weight weenie myself (26lb large Loco Moto) but I ride with several WW that are on sub-25lb FS bikes including a 22lb I-Drive, a 21lb Racer X, and a 24.5lb Spec. Enduro.

[Echo]

It would cost ya, but King hubs will take a bunch of weight off. Of course the other suggestions here will all help too.

If I used a lighter fork I could easily get my Blur well under 25, but I went with the performance of the TALAS and I'm extremely happy with it at 26 lb.

[jebfour]

Edit: I've been hitting the online catalogs and putting this stuff into an Excel sheet........damn, I could buy my own island if I did all of the stuff I really want. Maybe a few things here and there, hand just using that extra 5 pounds to get myself in better shape is starting to sound better and better........nobody ever said this stuff was cheap though!

Thanks for the input!

[Mike B.]

If you've only got the cash to make one upgrade, definetly go for wheels and tires. Rotational weight is the killer and I know I can certainly feel the difference when changing between wheelsets on the same bike.

[Echo]

Originally posted by Mike B.
If you've only got the cash to make one upgrade, definetly go for wheels and tires. Rotational weight is the killer and I know I can certainly feel the difference when changing between wheelsets on the same bike.
Yup. I'll second that.

Hey Mike, I put some Stan's goop in my UST setup for the Old Pueblo race, I'm hooked :thumb:

[indieboy]

slr saddle will drop some weight :)

[rockracing]

Originally posted by indieboy
slr saddle will drop some weight :)

but with on of those you stand to lose more than just some weight ;) :D

[Mike B.]

Originally posted by Echo
Yup. I'll second that.

Hey Mike, I put some Stan's goop in my UST setup for the Old Pueblo race, I'm hooked :thumb:

Sweet! :thumb: How did ghostrider fare? I've got to get up and ride with the 'lopes and bring some goodies, I promised jdcamb already.

[Jesus]

I don't know if this is still the case, but when I built up my Spyder, I was gonna get the new XTR. But the FSA carbon cranks, and Ti bottom bracket were lighter, and about half the price!

[The Toninator]

umm if you just bought it i wouldnt change to much because what's the point of buying a full bike but if you just have too do the wheels like has been suggested.
i just bought the same bike but i have rim brakes and it comes in around 25.5lbs nice weight i could drop it a bit but dont want to spend to much more. I did piece this bike together though fyi.

i've got XT brake/shifter's, XT front/rear shifters, cranks, XT cassette, avid sd 5 brakes(changing soon to avid ti's) pc69 chain, egg beater pedals, FSA XC115 stem (135g) kore xc riser (will change soon) XTR cables, maxxis larson TT front Mimo rear, Sid RACE (same weight as world cup less features) steel water bottle cage, rear wheel is King on 517 3x 14/17, front is King on 517 radial 14g (relace to new 517 2x 14/17).

[The Toninator]

oops i also have a thompson post (need to find a nice Ti for it) and a specialized bg saddle and salsa del feguo grips

[Repack]

Fork and cranks in no particular order. Axle=Anchor. Sane with the cranks.
Those will give you performance benefits beyond the weight savings. I'd do cassette and chain as well for the same reason. I wouldn't get overly concerned with weight. If you are interested in buying parts for a bike at that price level (it is a nice bike-not a jibe) you should "adjust" your priotities.

[reflux]

If you're short on money, the wheels are the place where your money spent will make the greatest difference. If you have a few extra bucks, I'll sell you my 02 Marzocchi Marathon (3") that'll save you around a pound-ish.:D

[rockracing]

I'm so loving that bike up there, such a good well proven design.

[pixelninja]

Originally posted by Mike B.
If you've only got the cash to make one upgrade, definetly go for wheels and tires. Rotational weight is the killer and I know I can certainly feel the difference when changing between wheelsets on the same bike. I agree. Check out http://www.oddsandendos.com and talk to Mike. He hooked me up with a hand built set of WTB Lazer Disc Lite hubs laced to Velocity VXC rims. Total weight for the set was under 1600g, and total cost was less than $350.