View Full Version : Shiver
MisterMental
09-18-2002, 08:20 PM
hi
2 things,
1) i got some shiver SC's and was wondering what could be done to stop teh rock guards from rubbing teh forks away as they are doing at the moment. taking them off is not an option
2) when i have the rebound set to pretty fast tehy top out is this normal?
thanks
you can bend them slighty foward. and no topping out is not good
MisterMental
09-19-2002, 09:28 AM
:S
'no topping out is not good'
i dont understand that are you saying topping out is bad or not topping out is bad?
also whenever i bend them forward tehy always bend back again
Poser
09-19-2002, 09:32 AM
Originally posted by MisterMental
:S
'no topping out is not good'
i dont understand that are you saying topping out is bad or not topping out is bad?
also whenever i bend them forward tehy always bend back again
I have the shiver myself and the answer is topping out is BAD! How old is it? Also I have no problems with the rock guard rubbing or hitting the fork. You might want to talk to who you bought it from and see what they say.
Kosin Trouble
MisterMental
09-19-2002, 09:42 AM
oh krap
what should i do about it
i bought it new and have increased the oil height, should that make it top out?
neway i increased teh oil height cause it was blowing through its travel too much
there isnt an actual noise when it tops out u just feel it
MisterMental
09-19-2002, 02:26 PM
ive just been for a ride and you dont notice it when your going along i think its cause teh oil has to circulate or sommmat and i also rode a mates Z1 MCR;s which have more or less teh same internals so all is good
KonaDude
09-19-2002, 07:19 PM
Originally posted by MisterMental
hi
2 things,
1) i got some shiver SC's and was wondering what could be done to stop teh rock guards from rubbing teh forks away as they are doing at the moment. taking them off is not an option
2) when i have the rebound set to pretty fast tehy top out is this normal?
thanks
1) Put a zip tie around the bulged part of the lowers where the seals are, this will allow the guards to rub on the tie instead of the metal.
2) No, this is not normal. You may be low on oil, or there may be something internally wrong.
MisterMental
09-19-2002, 09:35 PM
the top out things ok i guess as there isnt an actual noiseits only little and yo dont notice it when your riding only when you stand next to teh bike and make it do it
im gonna try leaving it overnight with teh rockguard bent forward a little bit
i tryed using zip ties but as the fork compersses it just gets pushed off up to the top of the fork
MisterMental
09-19-2002, 09:39 PM
..... when putting more oil in them i do it with the springs removed and do i have the damping things up or down or in teh middle and i have it with teh fork compressed right? the instruction booklet aint too clear about that
KonaDude
09-21-2002, 11:31 AM
Originally posted by MisterMental
the top out things ok i guess as there isnt an actual noiseits only little and yo dont notice it when your riding only when you stand next to teh bike and make it do it
im gonna try leaving it overnight with teh rockguard bent forward a little bit
i tryed using zip ties but as the fork compersses it just gets pushed off up to the top of the fork
You have to make them really tight. They'll stay in place.
KonaDude
09-21-2002, 11:33 AM
Originally posted by MisterMental
..... when putting more oil in them i do it with the springs removed and do i have the damping things up or down or in teh middle and i have it with teh fork compressed right? the instruction booklet aint too clear about that
Use a syringe and just add 10mL to each side. Just don't let the oil height get too high (no higher than around 35mm from the top I'd say). Location of the damping rods won't make a huge difference. Springs are usually out for the measurement. It's easier if you just add a measured amount to each side. But yes, your procedure is right.
MisterMental
09-21-2002, 11:51 AM
it makes a lot a difference where the damping rods are if tehy are at teh bottom they over flow and if tehy are at teh top the oil goes right down
i think i got em sorted now
they only top out a teeny bit when they are left alone
rfemurfx
09-21-2002, 11:15 PM
hi
2 things,
1) i got some shiver SC's and was wondering what could be done to stop teh rock guards from rubbing teh forks away as they are doing at the moment. taking them off is not an option
2) when i have the rebound set to pretty fast tehy top out is this normal?
1) a neat way to get the guards not to rub, is to buy some velcro strips with sticky backing, use the fuzzy (loop tape) side and stick on the fork leg. cut it the same width as the guard and youll never hear and notice those scratches.
2) if your rebound is set pretty fast then the top out noice or feel you have is normal. if you slow the rebound and the top out is still there then you have a problem. generaly setting the fork with fast rebound may not give you good performance. but they are there to play with, so play with them.
KonaDude
09-22-2002, 04:37 AM
Another thing that could cause the topout problem is excessive preload. While it's possible, it's not a good idea to have the preload on the fork cranked up, as it puts more stress on the damper and overall structure of the fork, and doesn't really change the spring rate.
MisterMental
09-22-2002, 09:25 AM
that velcro idea sounds really good i tihnk ill try it if i get ne more probs wiht teh rock guards. i bent them back and left sommat jammed in there overnight so teh couldnt bend back to teh original position.
i am running 0 preload and about after 2 thirds of the dampning is wound out it starts topping
i think this is normal as a mate Z1MCR also does it
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