I have a big problem

[Savage_Animal]

Ok so I got a conversion kit for the Halo SAS wheel to convert it to 10mm bolt on. I've been rinning it on my P2 for a while. but the problem is, is that the inside is wider then it should be. Ever since i put the kit on the wheel has been super hard to get inside the drop outs of my bike, and its screwed up my brakes.

Anyway I tried to put the old wheel on my new suburban frame and there is no way in hell i am going to be able to squeez it in there like I always did let alone slam it.

Heres a picture, the other side is flush:

http://i47.servimg.com/u/f47/11/77/23/43/dscf0619.jpg
(note the chip in the frame :( )

What do you think I should do?

Try and sand down the bolts...?

[.Pit Steelers.]

Umm i might be missing something but why dont you loosen the bolt so it fits into the drops outs and then tighten it?

[demo 9]

im with pit steelers on this one, i think u might be setting it up wrong...

[Savage_Animal]

No you don't understand, thats not the bolt.

What is shown in the picture is the bolt that holds the axle assembly together, there is another bolt that goes on the outside of the drop outs.

[.Pit Steelers.]

If you want pull the drop outs futher apart i know i had to pull mine a bit on my Mob. Give it a shot or i guess just sand them down.

[builder666]

try finding a thinner bolt to replace the one holding the hub together.

[Defenestrated]

I'm thinking, go to work on the existing bolts with a rotary tool, or find a nut/bolt manufacturer/shop/company in your area and pick up a thinner set.

edit: also, post pics of your suburban!

[Savage_Animal]

Thanks guys.

like I stated in my first post, there is no way for me to jam this wheel in there.

it seems like I can get one of the bolts off, but the other one (nds) is on there pretty tight. I'm afraid I will strip the threads if I grip the other side with pliars or something.

maybe I could just sand it down, I have a dremal too. But i'd need to go down about 5mm on each bolt...

[jonKranked]

measure your dropouts to make sure you didn't tweak your frame....

[Defenestrated]

don't use pliers!

Looks like you need two opposing wrenches, take it to a bike shop if you can find some wrenches.

[WestCoastHucker]

....What is shown in the picture is the bolt that holds the axle assembly together, there is another bolt that goes on the outside of the drop outs.

i think you somehow got the nuts mixed up, i'm sure the other one is thinner and that is the outside one...

[Savage_Animal]

1. the nuts are exactly the same length

2. how could I use two opposite pliers if one nut is on and the other is off?

3. the frame isn't tweaked because it is brand new I can fit another wheel in fine from my xc bike

Alright, so i went ahead and did some pretty heavy sanding and grinding. I shaved about 3 cm off the nut that I can get off (on the drive side). And to make things all good I'll just have to do the same to the nut on the other side...

Any suggestions on getting it off? I just put it on about 6 months ago and haven't touched it ever since :/

[Defenestrated]

thread it back on and use it as leverage to get the other off?

[Savage_Animal]

thread it back on and use it as leverage to get the other off?

haha ya i could try that, I'll see in the morning, actually it is the morning 2:00... got to go to bed

[Savage_Animal]

:imstupid: I figured it out. The axle could take an allen key so I just stuck that in there and the bolt came off super easy. then I just grinded it down a little bit.

Now everything fits perfectly :)

except I still need to convert my front 20mm hub to 9mm Qr ...:P I think my lbs has the kit.

[jonKranked]

3. the frame isn't tweaked because it is brand new I can fit another wheel in fine from my xc bike

did you measure the width of the hub before you did anything? as well as the width of the dropouts?

Also, just because it's brand new doesn't mean its not tweaked. I've seen brand new frames damaged out of the box because of improper packing (chain/seat stays got bent in).

[Savage_Animal]

did you measure the width of the hub before you did anything? as well as the width of the dropouts?

Also, just because it's brand new doesn't mean its not tweaked. I've seen brand new frames damaged out of the box because of improper packing (chain/seat stays got bent in).

Ya everything is fine now. THe suburban actualy came with this plastic piece that went intside the drop outs and held them together which was nice.

but ya I think it was 130mm was what my hub was supposed to be, but when I measured it, it was 140mm... so just too off 5mm from each side and now its great.:cheers:

[jonKranked]

the frame spacing should have been 135, not 130 (mountain/road standard is 135 mm). Also, 140 is not right either. Were you sure you assembled the conversion kit properly? You shouldn't have to grind any material to get a wheel to fit.

[BikeSATORI]

this sounds pretty jankered to me.

Should've thrown a caliper on your hub, then on the inside of the drops on your frame to compare.
As jonKranked mentioned, both should be 135... unless you got a NS Capital frame, which would have been 110. And yeah, not unusual at all to receive a new frame with a crunched rear tri... mistaken ups side-load, etc, etc...
Are you sure you installed the cassette body into the hub properly during the axle swap? All bearings pressed into the proper places all the way?

[Landon]

You know the world's got problems
I've got problems of my own
Not the kind that can't be solved
With an atom bomb

[Savage_Animal]

nvm...

[Savage_Animal]

nvm...