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cmc
12-10-2007, 12:52 PM
"Front End Length":

This is the theoretical horizontal distance (parallel to the ground) from between two vertical lines (perpendicular to the ground), one intersecting your BB and the other the top of your head tube.

http://www.geocities.com/upsetbmx/Front-end-length.jpg

WHY ? Because it takes out the variables of both seat tube height and seat tube angle. Road bikers care a lot where their seat is. BMX and DJ don't because you're standing all the time.

Before you say who cares, this is bull**** geek stuff, read the following description from the empirebmx website:

Example from empirebmx.com : "Fly Bikes Tierra frame 19.8", 20.6", and 21" TT, 13.25" CS, 75 HA, 71 SA, 4.65 lbs; the seat tube is offset 0.4" towards the back, so the actual TT length is 0.4" longer than how the bike will truly feel (21" rides like 20.6", etc.) "

A 0.4" longer when your choices between different $350 frames are based in 0.5 increments . . . .

What you want to know is where are your feet/knees are in relation to your hands. (Knee gonna hit your bars?) A frame with a laid back seat angle will have a longer top tube than one with a more vertical seat angle--but the bikes will feel exactly the same to ride.

Companies are telling you numbers that are easy for THEM to measure because the bike is in their hands. But it doesn't help us compare 2 different frames we haven't ridden unless you're going to do some Trig. (calculating the seat angle factor).

The distinction between "actual" versus "effective" TT lengths is also irrelevant to BMX and DJ. This comes from road biking where old school road bikes originally had top tubes that were parallel to the ground. When they started slanting them down (and intersecting lower on the seat tube), they got shorter, even though your seat is still in the same place. For example see here: http://www.somafab.com/geometry03.html

Heh heh. Now maybe I'll get back to work. No wait, it's lunch time.

Castle
12-10-2007, 01:53 PM
it would really help if companies just added in center to center downtube measurements in their geo charts...

not only in the dj/bmx world but in the dh world where both you hardly ever sit down on the bike..... you are more interested in the relationship (distance wise) between your feet and hands...

kidwoo
12-10-2007, 02:00 PM
I'll make sure to carry two plumb lines with me next time I go buy a bike.

WestCoastHucker
12-10-2007, 02:16 PM
lots of companies already measure this. it's called "front center"...

Cru Jones
12-10-2007, 02:50 PM
who cares, this is bull**** geek stuff



:biggrin:

cmc
12-10-2007, 03:03 PM
lots of companies already measure this. it's called "front center"...

Never heard a BMX company use that term. But you're right.


This post proves that roadies will out-geek any of us:

http://www.serotta.com/forum/archive/index.php?t-5648.html



A relatively accurate formula for calculating the difference in the "effective" TT length is: saddle height x (cosA-cosB), where A and B are the two seat tube angles. In your case, I'll assume that you saddle height is 85cm. If you plug 72 and 73 degrees into the formula, the result is a difference of 1.4cm per degree. To compare several frames, one must be selected as the "nominal" STA. For example, if your current frame has a 72 degree STA and the others you're looking at have 73 degree STAs, then you should ADD 1.4cm to the advertised TT length of these frames to make an accurate comparison.

cmc
12-13-2007, 02:10 PM
How can "front center" be longer than "actual top tube" ?? If it is, then it's something different than what I'm talking about.


http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/showthread.php?t=147956&page=2

CreeP
03-23-2006, 06:11 PM

well, the most important measurements to me -as a bit of a bike designer myself- are: front center, cs length, bb-centertop of headtube, and the angle of that line, and of course head angle and bb height. Those weird ones i just mentioned really tell you how the bike will fit. TT length really is bs, especially since there are so many variations in HA and STA. If you have a very upright style and want some cockpit room forward you could easily end up with the wrong feel, and a seat so far from your knees, if you go solely by toptube length simply because the seattube angle has such an effect on tt length.

So for my Peyto: 420mm fork
front center: 24"
bb-ctht 650mm
400mm cs 388 slammed
actual tt 21.5
bb height 320mm
HA: 72
SA: 73
(a similar Peyto these days will cost you between 900 and 1400 depending on joining method and tube selection and extra features)

Landon
12-13-2007, 02:30 PM
For what it's worth, the method you described for measuring frames is the same one I've been using for years.

Not really practical to do without a drawing, but I think it's a good way to size bikes like this.

-L

cmc
12-13-2007, 02:41 PM
For what it's worth, the method you described for measuring frames is the same one I've been using for years.

Not really practical to do without a drawing, but I think it's a good way to size bikes like this.

-L

cool...

as far as ease of measurement, Castle is right: center-to-center downtube would be a more useful number than TT".

the small BB height variation between frames would skew it only a tiny bit, basically negligible.



The less-than-an-inch vertical variation you see in BB height would not be enough to throw off the downtube measurement very much.

sittingduck
12-13-2007, 02:45 PM
Sort of like "effective top tube", but measured from the BB instead. I like it. I like it a lot. I have always thought top tube and seat tube measurements were misleading and somewhat worthless. Fork lengths would change the equation slightly, but not nearly as much as variables in the seat tube change the TT measurements.

sittingduck
12-13-2007, 02:48 PM
I'll make sure to carry two plumb lines with me next time I go buy a bike.Use one, and make marks on the floor. :D Or bring a 4' level.

Leethal
12-14-2007, 07:06 AM
Front Center is this...

http://www.bikeforest.com/CAD/faq/frontcenter.gif

bbrz4
12-14-2007, 07:29 AM
BikeCAD is sweet!