View Full Version : How many of you would rock these pedals
SquadraCorse
11-24-2007, 04:13 PM
Thinking of having a small run made. Will probably definitely make some for myself. CNC'd Aluminum bodies, TI spindles, Bushings, Polished Carbon Inlays.
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a80/ralliartgs/SoutherCrossPedal2copy.jpg
Thoughts and comments welcome, as long as they're constructive.
Kanter
11-24-2007, 04:53 PM
Price would be a huge factor?
Material as well. I'm BRUTAL on pedals....
bent^biker
11-24-2007, 05:00 PM
replaceable pins?
demo 9
11-24-2007, 05:25 PM
other colors?
SquadraCorse
11-24-2007, 05:57 PM
Definitely replaceable pins. Colors could be anything. Would probably offer them in a few base anodized colors. Purple, Red, Blue, Black, Silver, Gold, Green.
Pricing will be a bit tough depending on which manufacturing route I'd take, they will either be cast then CNC'd (inexpensive, not as strong), or just straight up CNC'd (pricey, very strong).
Just seeing if it would be even worth pursuing.
They will be very lightweight for you weight weenies...myself included.
joelsman
11-24-2007, 06:31 PM
skip the carbon unless it is functional. and it is all about pins and weight, go magnesium if possible.
capt.crispy
11-24-2007, 07:15 PM
I 'm in if the price is tollerable.
BrooklynMachine
11-24-2007, 09:23 PM
skip the carbon unless it is functional.
Agreed. Non-functional carbon inlays always come out looking cheesy. If they're structural howver, that's a pretty sweet way to make a pedal body.
rid3HB
11-24-2007, 11:07 PM
Pricing will be a bit tough depending on which manufacturing route I'd take, they will either be cast then CNC'd (inexpensive, not as strong), or just straight up CNC'd (pricey, very strong).
difference in price?
rid3HB
11-24-2007, 11:08 PM
^ sorry that wasnt specific. what would the difference in price be?
sittingduck
11-25-2007, 12:04 AM
I like some concave in my pedals.
I like some concave in my pedals.
:stupid:
freakrock
11-25-2007, 02:12 AM
what makes your design better than other pedals out there?
very light eh!
i would take some.
SquadraCorse
11-25-2007, 12:12 PM
what makes your design better than other pedals out there?
That's a good question, but they're pedals, they are no different than anyone elses. Other than grip, weight, cost, and style, what varies between platform pedals? Why would you buy a set of CNC'd dangerboy pedals over a set of cast cheap shimano pedals? It's not like you're going to come up with anything new and revolutionary in the pedal department. Or any bike component area.
I'm just looking to make a set for myself and a friend, but was looking to see if it would make sense to have a few extras made if anyone was interested in the style and design. As for pricing the parts will go out for quoting tomorrow.:cheers:
mikey.elefant
11-25-2007, 12:14 PM
Squadra,im interested-Are you intrested in launching in Israel ??????
capt.crispy
11-30-2007, 12:19 PM
Any idea on the price yet?I'am very interested.
Stray_cat
11-30-2007, 12:25 PM
What'd be the chances of getting a grip surface inlayed into the pedal instead of carbon? Nice lookin pedals!
im still interested! price quote yet?>
SquadraCorse
11-30-2007, 01:41 PM
Sorry Fellas, I've been slacking big time. This working full time is for suckers, I've been useless in my own design endevors all week. Stay tuned though. I need to do some slight revisions this weekend due to some inputs and I'll get on it the start of next week.
Sir_Crackien
12-01-2007, 07:15 PM
i could be game. it all depends on the price and final shape
Popoff
12-02-2007, 01:35 PM
have you looked into the special machining considerations with titanium? any sharp inside corners (root of the threads, having thread relief's, steps in shaft size) will haunt you with titanium, it's very sensitive to stress risers.
what type of bearing will you use? how about sealing?
ridefast
12-02-2007, 05:05 PM
I think they look cool, and i always like to try out different pedals. So depending on price, Id likely be in for a set.
freakrock
12-03-2007, 08:49 PM
That's a good question, but they're pedals, they are no different than anyone elses. Other than grip, weight, cost, and style, what varies between platform pedals? Why would you buy a set of CNC'd dangerboy pedals over a set of cast cheap shimano pedals? It's not like you're going to come up with anything new and revolutionary in the pedal department. Or any bike component area.
I'm just looking to make a set for myself and a friend, but was looking to see if it would make sense to have a few extras made if anyone was interested in the style and design. As for pricing the parts will go out for quoting tomorrow.:cheers:
i know pedal models aren't that different one from the other, but each one features different characteristics that make them more atractive to one or another person.
Atomlab will tell you that their bushing system is the best, and that their pedals are user serviceable... the bushings aren't as awesome as they should,but get the job done; the low profile, good weight and awesome grip make some people want to buy them.
the wellgo mg1 don't look good, and don't last like other pedals, but they are super light and cheap.
the crank bros 50/50 aren't light, and don't perform as well as other pedals, but there is still people out there wanting them beacause they are fashion.
what i was trying to achive with my previous post was that you could tell us what makes your pedals highlight from the rest. i know ti axles and carbon inlays are part of your design, but please elaborate a little bit more about the benefits you want to achieve with them, like the expected weight for the set of pedals, improved durability over other models, and so on.
Thank you :)
It's not like you're going to come up with anything new and revolutionary in the pedal department.
I beg to differ.
http://gallery.mtbr.com/showphoto.php/photo/127591/size/big/cat/1182
SquadraCorse
12-09-2007, 10:10 AM
I beg to differ.
http://gallery.mtbr.com/showphoto.php/photo/127591/size/big/cat/1182
How is that revolutionary? It's a platform for your foot coupled to a bearing. The same thing all platform pedals are...That's the exact same thing as any other platform pedal with a different shape. Honestly I don't think that's a better design seeing as how you have all the load canti- levered off one bearing and not evenly distributed. I'd never run those pedals.
what colors will be offered, and have a price in mind yet?
How is that revolutionary? It's a platform for your foot coupled to a bearing. The same thing all platform pedals are...That's the exact same thing as any other platform pedal with a different shape. Honestly I don't think that's a better design seeing as how you have all the load canti- levered off one bearing and not evenly distributed. I'd never run those pedals.
Well, I'd say you just defined a platform pedal. Good job. As you've defined it, no, there's not a lot of room for change. But that's definatly very different than most platform pedals, in terms of how the body and bearings are aranged.
That said, I don't really like them either, but not for the reasons you stated. You're wrong about the single bearing. If you look closer, there's a second bearing on the other side of the crank arm. That's where the problem is- you need to drill out your crank arm to use them, or use their propritary crank. No thanks.
OGRipper
12-10-2007, 06:07 PM
I want flat pedals to be both parallelogram and concave, so no I would not buy those.
However, I don't really agree with some people here who think you need revolutionary ideas to have a viable product. There are plenty of small companies churning out solid versions of proven designs, and there is always room for more. The idea is only the first step.
I want flat pedals to be both parallelogram and concave, so no I would not buy those.
However, I don't really agree with some people here who think you need revolutionary ideas to have a viable product. There are plenty of small companies churning out solid versions of proven designs, and there is always room for more. The idea is only the first step.
I don't think anyone said that. If that was at least partially directed at me, I was just making a point that revolutionare pedal designs are out there. Like I said, I'm not even that impressed with the pedal I posted.
SquadraCorse
12-11-2007, 07:09 AM
I want flat pedals to be both parallelogram and concave, so no I would not buy those.
However, I don't really agree with some people here who think you need revolutionary ideas to have a viable product. There are plenty of small companies churning out solid versions of proven designs, and there is always room for more. The idea is only the first step.
What is the difference between having concave pedals and setting the pin heights so the pins on the perimeter are higher than the at the center?
DiRt DeViL
12-11-2007, 09:18 AM
Interesting proposition, can you give us a ballpark figure on the price?
OGRipper
12-11-2007, 12:46 PM
What is the difference between having concave pedals and setting the pin heights so the pins on the perimeter are higher than the at the center?
Your feet rest on the pedal surface, not on the tips of the pins. Different pin heights just mean the pins dig into your shoes more (especially with sticky rubber, soft skate shoes, etc.). Concave pedals just feel more secure to me, and it's easier to feel where your feet are in relation to the spindle, etc. Ride one of each and you should be able to see what I mean.
wadly_1001
12-19-2007, 02:42 PM
Try to use large bearings, but keeping the pedal thin? Offer a hollow ti spindle? A Mg alloy would be good? Grip tape instead of the carbon inlay would be nice. I live concave as well!
Pls make them lighter than a DMR v12 ti which is 354g! I'll get one from you if you make them lighter!
w00dy
12-19-2007, 04:29 PM
ZOMG can u maik them out of carbonite?
I saw that in star wars and it seemed totally storng.
Stronger than mohogany at least.
SquadraCorse
12-19-2007, 04:39 PM
I've actually got the machine shop quoting them out of an unobtanium/carbonite alloy w00dy.
look legit to me, although I'd probalby drop the carbon inserts unless your going for some sort of marketing angle.
I'd go magnesium cage, ti spindal, and ceramic bearings... then all I could say is... tits!
scorpionsf
12-30-2007, 03:58 PM
mag body, Ti spindle, no carbon, ceramic bearings, concave, replacable pins
and when can i get a set in red and for how much?
mag body, Ti spindle, no carbon, ceramic bearings, concave, replacable pins
and when can i get a set in red and for how much?
:beerjam::happydance::rockout: I'll go for polished...
Inclag
01-01-2008, 07:51 PM
Some questions for you and suggestions.
Questions
1) Concavity?
2) Material?
3) Have you carried out any FEA regarding the spindle or done the mathematics to spec out bearings based on whatever design you are running, this shouldn't be terribly difficult if you're an engineer?
Suggestions
The design isn't optimized for manufacturing let alone for something that is done as a possible one off. If there is any casting, the tooling cost will be very expensive. Even if you were to use something like DPT-Fast metal casting using plaster tooling the cost will still be high and I'm not even sure if they would offer cast aluminum or magnesium you would need to use. You also would likely need to redesign the pin webbing if the parts were cast. Take into account that you would need to perform final machining with multiple fixturing or use a mahine with 4-axis along with finishing and you have quite the operation for something that you want to make a few of.
If you are planning to mahine these you may want to increase the radius of the large inside pockets. Just looking at them they appear pretty small, so small that you would need to machine the pockets first with a larger tool and then finish mahine with a smaller tool that could break based on that pocket depth. It would increase machining time significantly = more expensive part. If you increase the radius between 1/8" to 1/4" you could do that pocket with only one tool and it would drop the maching time a bunch. Also, you would have to set-up the aluminum block in a vice or fixture twice to do 2 side-ops which although they are simple, is more machining time and if you aren't doing the maching yourself it means more $$$. Lastly, although the small fillet radius softens the part nicely for I.D. purposes, were you planning on machining it? You wouldn't be able to machine any of the radii except the ones that you are coming straight down at while machining, so effectively, barely any of them. You would have better luck cleaning the edges off by hand with a de-burring tool or in a shaker and then media blasting the part to soften all the edges.
Hope I didn't come off as harsh or anything, its just as an engineer that works for a very small engineering design/consulting outfit where we all are self taught machinist you start to gain a new respect for manufacturability. Feel free to PM me if you need any clarification or if you need any more help if you were planning on machining them yourself.
Good luck!
SquadraCorse
01-04-2008, 07:02 AM
Some questions for you and suggestions.
Questions
1) Concavity?
2) Material?
3) Have you carried out any FEA regarding the spindle or done the mathematics to spec out bearings based on whatever design you are running, this shouldn't be terribly difficult if you're an engineer?
Suggestions
The design isn't optimized for manufacturing let alone for something that is done as a possible one off. If there is any casting, the tooling cost will be very expensive. Even if you were to use something like DPT-Fast metal casting using plaster tooling the cost will still be high and I'm not even sure if they would offer cast aluminum or magnesium you would need to use. You also would likely need to redesign the pin webbing if the parts were cast. Take into account that you would need to perform final machining with multiple fixturing or use a mahine with 4-axis along with finishing and you have quite the operation for something that you want to make a few of.
If you are planning to mahine these you may want to increase the radius of the large inside pockets. Just looking at them they appear pretty small, so small that you would need to machine the pockets first with a larger tool and then finish mahine with a smaller tool that could break based on that pocket depth. It would increase machining time significantly = more expensive part. If you increase the radius between 1/8" to 1/4" you could do that pocket with only one tool and it would drop the maching time a bunch. Also, you would have to set-up the aluminum block in a vice or fixture twice to do 2 side-ops which although they are simple, is more machining time and if you aren't doing the maching yourself it means more $$$. Lastly, although the small fillet radius softens the part nicely for I.D. purposes, were you planning on machining it? You wouldn't be able to machine any of the radii except the ones that you are coming straight down at while machining, so effectively, barely any of them. You would have better luck cleaning the edges off by hand with a de-burring tool or in a shaker and then media blasting the part to soften all the edges.
Hope I didn't come off as harsh or anything, its just as an engineer that works for a very small engineering design/consulting outfit where we all are self taught machinist you start to gain a new respect for manufacturability. Feel free to PM me if you need any clarification or if you need any more help if you were planning on machining them yourself.
Good luck!
This entire pedal could be made on a 3 axis machine. I agree with the inside radii of the large pockets, however it's a concept rendering, not a finished design.
All small edge radii could be done with a corner radius tool. I designed the part to be CNC'd, so it's as simple as a tool change and another tooling path.
http://carb.thomasnet.com/ImgSmall/Corner%20Rounding%20p%2045.jpg
All the pockets, as you can see, are oval slots, which could be done in one pass each with a sharp 2 flute mill. They are also not perpendicular to the faces, but perpendicular to the X and Y axis of the pedal. This means the pedal does not need to be held at an angle when machining the slots, it can be held orthogonal to the base of a vise. Due to the simplicity there would be minimal fixturing needed. I could machine the first ones on a manual 3 axis if I felt so inclined.
Your media blaster/shaker idea is cool, but I don't know if they would "soften" the edges as much as I'd like, I think I'd want a defined radius.
Constructive input is always appreciated :thumb:
XxHMBPRiderxX
01-06-2008, 06:32 PM
idk about the ti and carbon for getting the hell beat out of them i know that with different materal i would deffiately buy them. but they look sweet
Inclag
01-10-2008, 07:59 AM
This entire pedal could be made on a 3 axis machine. I agree with the inside radii of the large pockets, however it's a concept rendering, not a finished design.
All small edge radii could be done with a corner radius tool. I designed the part to be CNC'd, so it's as simple as a tool change and another tooling path.
http://carb.thomasnet.com/ImgSmall/Corner%20Rounding%20p%2045.jpg
All the pockets, as you can see, are oval slots, which could be done in one pass each with a sharp 2 flute mill. They are also not perpendicular to the faces, but perpendicular to the X and Y axis of the pedal. This means the pedal does not need to be held at an angle when machining the slots, it can be held orthogonal to the base of a vise. Due to the simplicity there would be minimal fixturing needed. I could machine the first ones on a manual 3 axis if I felt so inclined.
Your media blaster/shaker idea is cool, but I don't know if they would "soften" the edges as much as I'd like, I think I'd want a defined radius.
Constructive input is always appreciated :thumb:
Cool
I was assuming you would be doing this on a 3-axis. Still, I just see it as waisted machine time flipping over the part so much even in a vice. Your design right now would require just two additional side-ops assuming that the front through pocket goes through the axle portion of the pedal, but doing the radii you would have to hit all six sides, since there wold be no way to hit the bottom edges with a radii tool. A tumbler with the correctly sized coarse ceramic media (likely v-cylindrical or triangular) should functionally knock down the edges so they are soft enough. It's a pedal that spins on an axle so you don't need what is a relatively large radii, you just need it soft enough so that if your skin brushes past it, you won't cut yourself. Any impact with your shins would cause the pedal to spin and you'll get the pedal teeth cutting you up.
Also, looking at it for a second time, I am a bit concerned abut the integrity of the pedal body. Some simple FEA and a prototype pair to test should clear that, but I wouldn't be all that surprised if the body needed to be beefier.
I guess I don't know if your doing this as just a side project or if this is something a bit more serious. If the only real cost to you is material cost then go for it!! Keep us updated with your progress and good luck.
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