canti brakes, help.

[LordOpie]

One huge problem with my new bike that I need help with... canti brakes, rims, and tire width. So I took the advice of y'all and went with the Mavic XC717 on XT hubs. The Cantis are set for the really (relatively speaking) narrow 26" rims -and- they only open up to the width of the fork as the brake pad is stopping it from opening further.

I could not get the tires James sent me -- Vredstein Perfect Carraterra 26x2" -- on there without serious effort. I had to deflate, squeeze the tire and even then, still had a lot of trouble.

Are the cantis supposed to open up past the fork? Are they set up wrong? If not, then I'm not sure how I'll be able to ride a snow tire. I guess I'll have to take photos tonight to better illustrate the issue.

[LordOpie]

This is the only photo I have at the moment, but the brake pad extends an inch (25mm) or so behind the fork.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v148/lordopie/PB180408.jpg

[Wumpus]

Are the cantis supposed to open up past the fork? Are they set up wrong? If not, then I'm not sure how I'll be able to ride a snow tire. I guess I'll have to take photos tonight to better illustrate the issue.



Nope. Cantis and v-brakes are both going to hit the fork(f)/frame(r). Deflating the tire and sqeezing it in are the best choice. Watch that you don't knock the brake pads out of alignment.


You could always loosen the pads and rotate the pads. Takes 5 minutes top.


The permanent and proper fix would be to ditch those inferior brakes and get discs.

[LordOpie]

Nope. Cantis and v-brakes are both going to hit the fork(f)/frame(r). Deflating the tire and sqeezing it in are the best choice. Watch that you don't knock the brake pads out of alignment.


You could always loosen the pads and rotate the pads. Takes 5 minutes top.


The permanent and proper fix would be to ditch those inferior brakes and get discs.

Thing is, I don't want to loosen the pads EVERY time I get a flat :( This is especially critical for the studded tires I have on order as i do not want to have to spend any longer than necessary in 20°F weather.

Really? Discs are the solution? Thanks! Considering there are no disc tabs on the bike, that doesn't help.

[SPINTECK]

not sure if i'm missing something obvious, but the you should have a tab on the cantiliver straddle cable that allows you pull the cable out from the non-bolted side, releasing the cantis well away from the rim.

Even if you don't have a tab, you can muscle that little nub out of the side.

once the wheel is in , you just hold the brakes together w/your hand and pop the cable back in.

[LordOpie]

Yes, I'm releasing the brake tension and opening them.

[Wumpus]

not sure if i'm missing something obvious, but the you should have a tab on the cantiliver straddle cable that allows you pull the cable out from the non-bolted side, releasing the cantis well away from the rim.

Even if you don't have a tab, you can muscle that little nub out of the side.

once the wheel is in , you just hold the brakes together w/your hand and pop the cable back in.

When you release the tension, the back end of the brake pad hits the fork leg limiting the opening.

[SPINTECK]

okay, thanks. I hate touching pads after they're set up too. yep- let the air out and pump up in fork....or get a wider, burlier fork to match the tires:)

It will only be an issue if you mount a tire wrong b/c it won't bubble or blow off until it's in the fork.

[ire]

have you tried removing all of the spacers from between the pad and the lever arm? It kills the adjustment but it might give you enough room (and hopefully they work well enough). Just a thought

[LordOpie]

have you tried removing all of the spacers from between the pad and the lever arm? It kills the adjustment but it might give you enough room (and hopefully they work well enough). Just a thought

Great thought!

I'm thinking that I have the bigger spacers inside the brake arm and smaller spacers on the outside -- I'll have to check when I get home.

[OGRipper]

Great thought!

I'm thinking that I have the bigger spacers inside the brake arm and smaller spacers on the outside -- I'll have to check when I get home.

You may have already figured this out, but if the cantilevers move much beyond vertical as they move toward the rim you will lose power due to a diminished mechanical advantage. You may still be able to lose some of your spacers to ease wheel installation/removal. You may also need to get some different spacers to find the right balance between brake power and wheel serviceability.

[loco-gringo]

I have to deflate the tires on my Open Pros on my CX bike. I'd say you are going to have to do it that way.