View Full Version : Building the Ultimate Commuter Bike
LordOpie
11-05-2007, 08:18 PM
Who wants to play? :)
The idea is to make it as maintainance free as possible while being able to sustain as much city 'punishment' as possible. For example, internal geared hub, dynohub, fenders, chain protection, able to withstand heat and snow, ride on ice or dry, broken pavement, day or 2am... you get the idea.
If nothing else, I'll use this thread to make notes for my future build.
James
11-05-2007, 09:08 PM
I'll play!
Pretty much build it around some Shimano Alfine stuff, it has all that stuff you're looking for.
Check around for some pics, I think either this year, or last, Shimano had a contest @ Interbike for Alfine-equipped bikes.
Really cool stuff. People like Rock Lobster are making some pretty cool bikes, if I remember correctly.
Edit: Here's Rock Lobster's:
http://www.rocklobstercycles.com/alfie.php
Super, super cool!
LordOpie
11-05-2007, 09:17 PM
Agreed. Alfine is good stuff.
What about things like BB or headset? Stuff that you want to keep crap out of?
I'm thinking, front hub would be dyno.
What about frame? I love steel, but AL has the advantage of not rusting from salt or mag.chloride, yeah?
How about brakes? Disc or rim? Probably disc for snow, mud, rain, yeah?
DirtyMike
11-05-2007, 09:42 PM
WTB Grease guard head set, servicable without dissasembly, tough call on the BB though Def aluminum for something that is going to hold up to corrosion. Another tough call on the brakes as well, both have advantages and dissadvantages. But if I were to go with Disk, Hydraulic for sure, but personally i would prefer a rim brake for commuting and city, for the same reason you dont want to go after a steel frame, rust build up from time to time on the rotors, a good all weather rim pad would probably work great
BikeMike
11-05-2007, 10:06 PM
I think there is an excellent case for these (http://www.breezerbikes.com/bike_details.cfm?bikeType=town&frame=d&bike=uptown&new=true)being quite the awesomeness in city bikes.
Sweet German lights, check. Rack, check. Fenders, check. Strong wheels, check. Encased chain, check. Reflective tires, check. Nexus8, check.
I'm torn on the issue of discs. I think they'd make the most sense for people who live in areas that are constantly wet. They're great when they're working, but they have a tendency to be a pain in the rear when they're not. V-brakes work well and they're simple, and simple is good.
Shimano makes pretty good BBs. If you never want to touch it ever again, perhaps Phill. Someone (Suntour?) made a BB with a crazy grease port spindle before my time. I wish I had one. Headset, not sure-something sealed, plus a section of tube over the lower cup (if the tube fits well enough, otherwise it just traps stuff). Pedals-maybe old Suntour grease guards, if it was possible to find them. I *heart* grease ports.
LordOpie
11-05-2007, 10:42 PM
I think there is an excellent case for these (http://www.breezerbikes.com/bike_details.cfm?bikeType=town&frame=d&bike=uptown&new=true)being quite the awesomeness in city bikes.
mutha fvckers stole my idea!
:D
That's a pretty sweet setup.
DirtyMike
11-05-2007, 11:08 PM
........................... Headset, not sure-something sealed, plus a section of tube over the lower cup (if the tube fits well enough, otherwise it just traps stuff). Pedals-maybe old Suntour grease guards, if it was possible to find them. I *heart* grease ports.
WTB Greaseguard headset, sealed loose ball headset, with GREASE PORTS, one on each cup, there were a couple bb's that had grease ports out and about. Not sure if anyone is still making them nowadays. Hell i was gonna link the headset, but not sure if WTB makes that anymore, cant find it on there website. I know of two that i can readily get if anyone wanted
James
11-05-2007, 11:21 PM
WTB Grease guard head set, servicable without dissasembly, tough call on the BB though Def aluminum for something that is going to hold up to corrosion. Another tough call on the brakes as well, both have advantages and dissadvantages. But if I were to go with Disk, Hydraulic for sure, but personally i would prefer a rim brake for commuting and city, for the same reason you dont want to go after a steel frame, rust build up from time to time on the rotors, a good all weather rim pad would probably work great
I think that the constant braking would keep the rotors free of rust, at least the important parts. I never had a problem with rust on any of my rotors, even the super old ones that have seen many a wet/muddy ride...
DirtyMike
11-05-2007, 11:41 PM
Yeah, thats what i was thinking, then i thought commuter, possible locked up in the rain, then i thought stainless steel. I would say though, something dual piston hydraulic if you were to go with the disk. I am partial to the idea of the ease of setup with a good set of Vbrakes and a good all weather pad. Tough call
James
11-05-2007, 11:55 PM
Yeah, thats what i was thinking, then i thought commuter, possible locked up in the rain, then i thought stainless steel. I would say though, something dual piston hydraulic if you were to go with the disk. I am partial to the idea of the ease of setup with a good set of Vbrakes and a good all weather pad. Tough call
I thought that most rotors were stainless though?
Or am I smoking crack?
sunny
11-06-2007, 12:21 AM
I would go with this
SPOT 29-er (OK, so this is the rear triangle of the CX bike, but it's the best pic I have of the belt drive)
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/mtbsunny/070925_Interbike/CIMG2790a_spot.jpg
+
Rolhoff
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/mtbsunny/070925_Interbike/rolhoff.jpg
I love this bike...
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/mtbsunny/070925_Interbike/CIMG2809.jpg
If I could have one bike to commute on that I would then be able to take a trail ride after work on, this would be it. Because of the hills around here, I'd want gears, hence the Rolhoff.
HRDTLBRO
11-06-2007, 12:45 AM
The new Giant Transcend line has been a good seller at my shop. The EX model has the Alfine bits...really nice stuff with a solid market.
LordOpie
11-06-2007, 10:07 AM
I would go with this
SPOT 29-er (OK, so this is the rear triangle of the CX bike, but it's the best pic I have of the belt drive)
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/mtbsunny/070925_Interbike/CIMG2790a_spot.jpg
Do the chain and seat stays disconnect from each other? :eek:
If not, how'd they get the belt on?
DirtyMike
11-06-2007, 10:11 AM
I thought that most rotors were stainless though?
Or am I smoking crack?
Yeah, most are, I am just used to having the low end crap bikes come in and wanting me to explain what wrong, Anything thats at least bike shop worthy will be a good stainless, low end crap sometimes has cheap ass quality steel. IW<I hope i dont get in trouble> Walmart /pacific bikes, stuff like that. At the shop we tell people that Pacific doesnt make bikes, they make toys and toys break
DirtyMike
11-06-2007, 10:11 AM
Do the chain and seat stays disconnect from each other? :eek:
If not, how'd they get the belt on?
Yes, that little composite peice on the drive side comes out so yo ucan slip the belt in/out
I can actually see a future with these belt driven rides, less maintance, good ride. who knows maybe its the singlespeed/internal hub future
That Spot Brand 29er with the Manitou up front is sweet!!!!!
BikeMike
11-06-2007, 11:06 AM
I thought that most rotors were stainless though?
Or am I smoking crack?
There are varying levels of stainlessness in stainless steels. I'm pretty sure I've seen a little bit of rust on the cut parts of abused Hayes rotors, like on the skinny sides of the rotor "spokes." But I've never seen them with rust that was a real problem.
BikeMike
11-06-2007, 11:18 AM
WTB Greaseguard headset, sealed loose ball headset, with GREASE PORTS, one on each cup, there were a couple bb's that had grease ports out and about. Not sure if anyone is still making them nowadays. Hell i was gonna link the headset, but not sure if WTB makes that anymore, cant find it on there website. I know of two that i can readily get if anyone wanted
Ah ha! I'd forgotten about that headset. I have a FSA with a lower "grease port hole" that doesn't really get the job done, and I've had great luck with regular sealed headsets...but with the ease of maintenance, and TWO grease ports, well I'd have to go with the WTB.
Also, let me know if you come across any decent grease ported BBs... The one I am thinking of I believe was designed so that the fresh grease was directed to the bearings from behind from multiple holes.
DirtyMike
11-06-2007, 10:30 PM
Also, let me know if you come across any decent grease ported BBs... The one I am thinking of I believe was designed so that the fresh grease was directed to the bearings from behind from multiple holes.
Your talking like the one that had a grease port on the bottom side of the bb shell? That feeds out into the bearings? I know some of those were Bike/bb specific... I will check on thursday if i have anything else in my drawer that was servicable without dissassembly. What size/spindle and type were you looking for?
Toshi
11-06-2007, 10:38 PM
I'll play!
Pretty much build it around some Shimano Alfine stuff, it has all that stuff you're looking for.
Check around for some pics, I think either this year, or last, Shimano had a contest @ Interbike for Alfine-equipped bikes.
Really cool stuff. People like Rock Lobster are making some pretty cool bikes, if I remember correctly.
Edit: Here's Rock Lobster's:
http://www.rocklobstercycles.com/alfie.php
Super, super cool!
that is beautiful. i want. :drool:
http://www.rocklobstercycles.com/cms/upload/alfie.jpg
James
11-06-2007, 11:21 PM
that is beautiful. i want. :drool:
http://www.rocklobstercycles.com/cms/upload/alfie.jpg
Yeah, it's pretty amazing. Some wood fenders would really set that baby off...
Mr. Hankey
11-07-2007, 07:32 AM
http://www.honda.co.jp/MTB/race2004/formation/machine-rn01/images/rn01_1.jpg
/Thread!
splat
11-07-2007, 07:59 AM
here are 2 options for you
I love the idea of the Rohloff
http://www.antbikemike.com/rohloff.html
and the Shaft drive is pretty interesting . ( and they Are right around the corner from me )
http://www.dynamicbicycles.com/
http://www.dynamicbicycles.com/admin/bikes/l161908.jpg
James
11-07-2007, 10:27 AM
here are 2 options for you
http://www.dynamicbicycles.com/admin/bikes/l161908.jpg
Whoa, talk about PhotoShop on the levers there!
splat
11-07-2007, 10:33 AM
Whoa, talk about PhotoShop on the levers there!
Is there even an STI type lever that works with the Nexus ? I know over the Summer , a Local Bike whop was building the 700c Wheels on the nexus for them.
I'll have to ask them ( I see one of there guys all the time on the trails )
LordOpie
11-07-2007, 12:29 PM
For seriously bad weather commuting :D ...
http://www.windwrap.com/ub/Pakefairingfrt2.jpg
^^ :rofl:
I like the belt drive idea....the belt is claimed to be indestructable
OGRipper
11-07-2007, 03:31 PM
For brakes, I think avid mechanical discs are a good option, perhaps the best combination of bad weather performance, flexibility and ease of set-up, and reliability as compared to v's or hydros. I wouldn't worry about rust build up.
I have a Rohloff on one bike. It is impervious to mud and leaves no derailleur to bend or break. If it was cheaper and lighter, I would have it on all my bikes.
I have a Rohloff on one bike. It is impervious to mud and leaves no derailleur to bend or break. If it was cheaper and lighter, I would have it on all my bikes.
Whats the break in period like? I've heard it takes a while
LordOpie
11-07-2007, 04:50 PM
How much weight does a Rohloff add over the weight of the drivetrain elements no longer present?
I think that I am still breaking it in. My expectation is that it will take at least 1000 miles. Unfortunately, there are other bikes I ride as well, so I have not hit that yet on the Rohloff.
With component weights dropping each year, the Rohloff loses ground all the time. You are getting rid of the following:
two derailleurs and shifters
two chainrings and bolts
a cassette
up to 1/3 of your chain
You replace the rear hub with a heavier one and add one shifter with two cables. Overall, you are gaining at least a couple hundred grams, but it goes almost entirely into your rear hub. This moves the bike's center of mass toward the rear and believe me, it is noticable. In my case, a light frame and very light front wheel led me to compensate with a longer stem to move my own weight forward.
LordOpie
11-07-2007, 05:18 PM
...led me to compensate with a longer stem to move my own weight forward.
wow, more substantial than I expected.
Good info!
DirtyMike
11-18-2007, 07:31 PM
Ah ha! I'd forgotten about that headset. I have a FSA with a lower "grease port hole" that doesn't really get the job done, and I've had great luck with regular sealed headsets...but with the ease of maintenance, and TWO grease ports, well I'd have to go with the WTB.
Also, let me know if you come across any decent grease ported BBs... The one I am thinking of I believe was designed so that the fresh grease was directed to the bearings from behind from multiple holes.
Didnt find a BB, But I did come across another Headset, and a Pair of Hubs front and rear, All the WTB Greaseguard style. Hubs are silver, Price tags are missing, headset is yellow, 40 bucks. If your intersted in them let me know, so I can look up the pricing, Otherwords i am gonna build them up on some Open pros and put them on teh floor as a commuter set
Mr. Hankey
11-19-2007, 08:24 AM
Why wouldn't you guys go with all ceramic bearings. They are 10times the life, and maintenance free.
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