Freeride Bike Specs (opinions plz?)

[King*Cole]

I'm thinking of building up a Dirtbag and so far I've figured out these specs. Tell me what you think. I'm open to suggestions on swapping parts out. Also if anyone has a Dirtbag and could kinda tell me how it rides that would be awesome.


Frame: Transparent Electric Blue Dirtbag (DHX Air)
Fork: Marzocchi 66 ATA
Headset: Cane Creek - Double XC Flush
Stem: Syncros FR
Shifters: Sram X.9
Front Brake: Avid Code
Rear Brake: Avid Code
Handlebar: Syncros Bulk
Grips: Oury Lock On
Rear Derailleur: Sram X.9 Med Cage
Cassette: Sram PG-990 9 sp
Chain: Wipperman Connex 908 9 Speed Chain
Chainguide: Wicked Racin Dualrailleur
Bashguard: Gamut P20 (Blue)
Cranks: Race Face Atlas 170 mm
Pedals: Wellgo MG-1 Magnesium
Seatpost: Thomson Elite
Saddle: WTB Rocket V SLT
Front Hub: Hope Pro II
Rear Hub: Hope Pro II
Rims: Mavic EX 823
Front Tire: Maxxis DHF Minion 2.5 UST
Rear Tire: Maxxis DHR Minion 2.5 UST
Spokes: DT Swiss Champion 14 Straight Guage


PS: I'm trying to keep it reasonably light


Also if anyone has some actual weights of these parts that would be awesome

[padrik5]

dude im so not in any mood so i'll be the first ass to say

your sucking at liferight now

[Urinal Mint]

Ti spokes eh? Looks like a race build on a freeride bike. Pretty damn fancy.

[King*Cole]

yeah idk about them spokes probly just go with normal ones

also any suggestions on how to reduce cost at all w/o reducing too much quality?

[TWeerts]

get rid of the ex 823's. they are heavy, and overkill. you have light hubs and spokes, and heavy rims. just use the EX 7somethings and put stans in them. much lighter.

also, i think the dirtbag has a 1.5" headtube now, am i wrong? if so, all you would need is either reducer cups (raises stack height, though) or a reducer headset. i recoment the cane creek double xc flush.

[King*Cole]

would dt swiss fr 6.1 be better? and would it be lighter to run a chris king with e13 reducer cups or that cane creek?

[El Gordo]

The 6.1 are crap from what I have heard and read they are super soft and pricey stick with the 823's awesome rim and hopes nice combo there.. Yeah get rid of the Ti spokes bro its a 9 lb frame... You are building a FR bike, also the E-13 will only work with the Creek cant run a King, cause I have a new King set and I am building a new Blindside and cant use it plus your better off going with a zero stack , I went with the FSA Orbit.. Also I would go with 170mm cranks, I made the mistake of going with 175mm on my preston and was dragging them over eveything.. I would save my money and get a cheaper chain, just my .o2.. Also it seems like you are gonna be pedaling this bike alot especially if your really worried about weight, you may want to run a dual rings and go with a E-13 DRS instead of the LG1 or is this just a FR DH rig???..

[El Gordo]

get rid of the ex 823's. they are heavy, and overkill. you have light hubs and spokes, and heavy rims. just use the EX 7somethings and put stans in them. much lighter.


The Mavic 721's are 590gr, Mavic 823's 657gr not a huge diff there doesnt make sense if he wants to run tubless to get 721 and run stans which adds weight when he can go bulletproof and get the 823 and have a kick ass ust rim from the start...

[TWeerts]

get what ever you want, but i dont suggest the 823's. 6.1's do tend to dent quick and easy. i would suggest 5.1's.

maybe the new sun mtx 31's? they are 31mm wide. they also make a 36 and a 29. they are stiff, and its hard to dent them.

i think the cane creek reducer(the zero stack one.) would be better.

inmo, the thomson masterpiece is wasted money. id just go for the elite.

[King*Cole]

thx any suggestions for spokes or chain?

[ZHendo]

spokes, dt all the way. straight gauge if you're on a budget, butted otherwise. i'm pretty sure that straight gauge will feel stiffer than butted. chain, sram or wippermann. both have the quick link setup which is a lifesaver, and they're also great chains.

my input on the build would be get some aluminum bars and also get different grips. i've found the yeti pattern a little bit squirmy, but very nice over bumps. i think that the oury lock ons are the best grips made, thicker for toning down vibrations, but also not squirmy at all.

by the way, the double XC flush is a 1.5 headset, so you won't need e13 cups.

[King*Cole]

any suggestions like specific for bar?

are the deitys any good?

[psychobiker]

would dt swiss fr 6.1 be better? and would it be lighter to run a chris king with e13 reducer cups or that cane creek?
dt swiss cheese... use some mavic rims if your gona go tubeless my experience with them is awesome

[King*Cole]

yeah im gonna go wiht the 823s

[King*Cole]

Is the 888 compatible with the E13 direct mount?

[Urinal Mint]

Definitely DO NOT get DT rims...they are the most overpriced pieces of crap rims out there. Mavics are great, but also, as someone else said, the new MTX 31s are looking promising. They actually come in 4 different widths this year, I would go with 31s front and rear. I believe they are 630 grams each, and if you are going for the white parts look, they do come in white. They will be available in January through BTI, so talk to your LBS if you want them.

[Slater]

KMC makes a really light chain. 250 grams. get one.

Stans rim strips weigh the difference between 721's and 823's so that's a no brainer.

Talked to the guy at my LBS and he said the j-bend on Wheelsmith spokes is beefier than DT, so that's something to think about. I'll be using them for said reason when I lace up my new 823's. Do it.

[El Gordo]

Go straight spokes over butted if you want to build a bulletproof wheel.. If you are only going tubless 823's are the only way to go I dont know why anybody would suggest diff :disgust1:.. Bars I would look at, Syncros Bulk, Funn fullon or Fatboys, Sunline V1 or V2, Azonic B52 are nice. Funn Also make s a nice direct mount stem for the 888 I am gonna get it. Chain wise just get a Sram easy to work with they are... If you run the FSA or Cane creek you dont need the reducer cups..

Just wondering are you gonna use this bike for mainly DH or FR and some AM stuff?

[El Gordo]

[QUOTE=TWeerts;2700817]get what ever you want, but i dont suggest the 823's. 6.1's do tend to dent quick and easy. i would suggest 5.1's.


Just curious why would you not suggest 823's but would suggest a 6.1 or a 5.1 knowing he wants to run tubeless??

[DirtyMike]

I'm thinking of building up a Dirtbag and so far I've figured out these specs. Tell me what you think. I'm open to suggestions on swapping parts out. Also if anyone has a Dirtbag and could kinda tell me how it rides that would be awesome.


Frame: Transparent Electric Blue Dirtbag (DHX Air Shock Upgrade)
Fork: Marzocchi 888 ATA World Cup
Headset: cane creek double xc flush
Stem: E13 Direct Mount
Shifters: Sram X.0 Right Only
Front Brake: Hope Mono M4
Rear Brake: Hope Mono M4
Handlebar: FSA K-Force DH Riser Bar
Grips: Oury Lock on
Rear Derailleur: Sram X.0 Med Cage
Cassette: Sram PG-990 9 sp
Chain: Wipperman
Chainguide: E13 LG-1
Chaingring: E13 Guidering
Cranks: Middleburn RS7 170 mm
Pedals: Wellgo MG-1 Magnesium
Seatpost: Thomson Elite
Saddle: WTB Rocket V SLT
Front Hub: Hope Pro II
Rear Hub: Hope Pro II
Rims: Mavic EX 823
Front Tire: Maxxis DHF Minion 2.5 UST
Rear Tire: Maxxis DHR Minion 2.5 UST
Spokes: DT Competition Double Butted
Skewers: Hope Skewers

PS: I'm trying to keep it reasonably light

Couple thoughts, first its a dirtbag, 42lbs your doing good, second DT spokes good, but stick with straight 14guage, wheels, why not Sun Singletrack SL1's. Im 240 thats what i am running. Stick with a coil shock, youll like the ride better, if weight is an issue, get a TI spring, i mean there is a reason why DH bikes are not coming with air shocks. Also, if your worried about weight, dont get maxxis UST tires, get your standard Dual case and run a stans kit, Its lighter. UST tired are as heavy as a tire and tube, Only real Beni is the lack of Pinchflats. Seriosuly I run Maxxis 2.5 Minions, Standard dual caseing on singletracks with a stans kit, it really is lighter. I have teh same bike, Minus the color. Mine green soon to be baby blue in January. n All else looks pretty good

[King*Cole]

i am mostly going to be doing freeride with the odd trip to the mountains to do some dh. and does anyone know how much the MTXs will cost compared to the 823s?

[El Gordo]

MTX - 60-70 bucks 823 - 80-90 bucks. Dude go 823's especially if your running tubless. The reviews on the MTX are mixed, but the 823 are strong as hell. 823 and hope or hadleys are the best combo, just my .o2.

[rigidhack]

i am mostly going to be doing freeride with the odd trip to the mountains to do some dh.

In that case, stay with a coil setup. Any reason for running a DC fork? The longer travel SC's are really nice, and a better choice for a FR bike IMO. If the new D'Bags have a 1.5 head tube, go with a Totem air instead of the 888. Also the Middleburn cranks are expensive and that last I heard they were still running ISIS bottom bracket (yuck!). Look at a Hone Double with an X9 setup. X0 is big time overkill on an FR bike where things like deraileurs get bent/broken/torn off all the time.

This build sort of reads like a laundry list of the "best of the boutique" combined with the "best of the buzz." There is nothing wrong with either the frame or the parts, but they don't match each other. Re-do the build to match the frame if you want a FR bike, or keep the build and get an Intense SOCOM for an uber-light DH bike.

[TheMauler]

any suggestions like specific for bar?

are the deitys any good?

YUP there nice, wait till the 08s come out... unless you can get a better deal

[El Gordo]

Cole looks like you changed the stats a bit , but you have some overkill stuff for a FR bike.. Like the 888 WC nice for a DH race bike, not needed for a DirtBag FR bike..

Frame is good
For a fork I would go with a Zook 66 ATA its a perfect match for the DB
170mm Saints or Holzfellers, Or if your looking to save weight you can go with the Race Face Atlas I was riding them and I am 240lb they are strong
I would do a dual ring setup over a Single ring
Dont run QR 's you want to run thru axles, the front is gonna be 20mm and the rear your gonna need a 10mm thru axle dont run a QR.
Sram XO RD overkill bro that think is $$ and when you bust it which will happen your gonna be pissed... Sh*t I was and I got mad at myself for spending 90 bucks on the XT Shadow.
823 w/ hopes good choice
Hopes M4 nice but I would go with 08 Codes lighter than the 07 and crazy stopping power..

Basically build it for the riding your gonna do, when you just go for the top end stuff you see in the mags your gonna be mad at yourself later for spending all that $$$ on stuff you didnt need, and you will never make your money back

[King*Cole]

yeah this is my first bike that im not buying stock and im kinda just starting into intense freeriding. I dont really know the diff between fr and dh parts so thx for the help

[TheMauler]

yeah this is my first bike that im not buying stock and im kinda just starting into intense freeriding. I dont really know the diff between fr and dh parts so thx for the help

ya thats what i was gonna do spend a bunch of money on high end stuff... i was talked out of it by my crew and it saved me alot of money.. gordo is right you cant really recoup all the cash you put into these bikes every now and then you can but it doesnt happen very often.

[King*Cole]

so i have to run a front derailleur if i go drs rite? and which one should i get?

[RideRMB]

If you dont have a front der. dont get the drs, get the srs, its lighter. and dont get a front der.

[DirtyMike]

Frame is good
For a fork I would go with a Zook 66 ATA its a perfect match for the DB


Here is what it looks like with a 66, here is mine


http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c342/Phatbikeguy/MVC-001F-1.jpg

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c342/Phatbikeguy/MVC-002F-3.jpg

Really is a good combo

[psychobiker]

If you dont have a front der. dont get the drs, get the srs, its lighter. and dont get a front der.

maybe he wants to climb, im able to climb on the stinky the drs really helps in the rough totem is what i would replace my triple clamp with but i really like the durability and tunning options on marzocchis. i def want a single crown fork

[DirtyMike]

maybe he wants to climb, im able to climb on the stinky the drs really helps in the rough totem is what i would replace my triple clamp with but i really like the durability and tunning options on marzocchis. i def want a single crown fork

Agreed, As you can see in my pics, DRS with 22/38 rings, Oh and instead of ATA get the ETA 66. Nice to be able to lock the fork Down

[micahb]

sounds like a conflict of interests here. get the parts that support 90% of the riding you are going to do. most expensive seldom equals best value or quality for the money.

[King*Cole]

I think I would like to go with the DRS but I'm still searching for a front derailleur. Also what do you mean by "lock the fork down"

[El Gordo]

I think I would like to go with the DRS but I'm still searching for a front derailleur. Also what do you mean by "lock the fork down"


Yeah going with a DRS is a good idea especially if your main riding is gonna be FR and trails and stuff. Well your going with Sram stuff over Shimano right. You can get a X9 Front derailleur
Front Derailleur: 34.9mm Clamp, Top-pull, High Mount SRAM thats what you need for the DB. For a DRS you can go E-13 which I did they make a real nice one, also Wicked Racin has a new one out that looks pretty killer and it incorporates the front derailleur check out there site it explains it and it comes with a front derailleur but its a shimano XT I think you may have to run a Sram not sure on that one..

As for the 66 ETA it uses a feature that locks it out thats what Dirty Mike is talking about here is the ETA explained

By simply using the command during ascent, the suspension will compress to the ideal height (depending on the riders’ weight). Unlike a traditional locking system, when activated, the ETA system allows 30mm travel to overcome small obstacles and improve comfort respect to a total lock.

Yeah either of the two 66's will be awesome trust me this fork rocks and its a perfect match for the Dirtbag talk to transition they say its the best combo as well.

[King*Cole]

oh i see you can set it too not have travel for climbs and stuff

also does the wicked racin dualrailleur thingy come with the roller inner plate or do u gotta purchase that seperately. It looks "wicked" lol

[DirtyMike]

oh i see you can set it too not have travel for climbs and stuffl

Exactly, when you read the directions, it tells you to just flip the switch and ride, personally i like to load it down a bit, either way you will be limiting the bike to 30mm in the front for that last little thump you get when climbing, and there wont be any bob at all.

[King*Cole]

are they specs good now?

[joelsman]

i had an 06 dirtbag built up similar, weighed 39.5 with a dhx air.

i also have fsa grivity carbon bars.

and definately get a 1.5 steerer tube.

maxxis ust tires are lighter than reg tires because they have a kevlar bead.

[King*Cole]

do you like the air? Is there a difference in quality between air and coil? I'm young and only weigh 120 so air pressure limit isnt a problem.

[DirtyMike]

I persoanlly do NOT like the DHX air, gets hot too easily on the big bikes. besides a DHX with a TI spring feels sooo much better

[Kanter]

Coil is waaay better than air. DHX, Roco, or Avy are the only choices.

[El Gordo]

Coil is waaay better than air. DHX, Roco, or Avy are the only choices.


You mean for you I hope... The kid weighs 120lb and he is not gonna be doing serious DH.. And you claim a coil is way better than air.. Also I am guessing you just forgot Cane Creek DB:poster_oops:


Cole you gotta ride both, go ride a FR bike with a Air shock and one with a Coil at your weight 120lb I think I was 10 when I weighed that but anyway, a air shock will be awesome for the riding you are gonna do. For DH I would say yes go Coil but for what your gonna do you can defiantly go Air and it will save some weight as well. You have a few options you can go with the DHX air or the Roco Air.

For you going DHX Coil and a Ti spring not worth the money bro actually its a waste.. Everybody is telling you go coil go coil, Dont listen to that .... air shock for your application is probably the way to go even Norco is going the route of a all Air DH bike for 08. But listen dude we can all tell you what to get and how much to spend... You have to make that decision its gonna be your bike..

Dont build a FORUM BIKE... Get out there borrow or whatever a bike with a air setup and one with a coil so you can make that decision for yourself.

On the 1.5 steerer tube you dont have to go that route if you dont want. Get a Cane Flush or a FSA 1.5 to 1 1/8 and you will good to go thats what I am running on my Blindside..

[ZHendo]

i think that you need to try an air and coil shock like el gordo said. at 120 lbs, you'll be needing a different spring than will come with the bike you get unless you're buying a small. air shocks can accomidate a whole spectrum of weights without swapping crap around. i know plenty of people that use air shocks for everything, but i think that the general opinion is that a coil shock with a ti spring will give a better feel. air shocks save a ton of weight over a coil, but by swapping for a ti spring, you'll drop away quite a bit of the coil shock's weight as well as maintain that feel. that's an expensive option though. air shocks have come incredibly far, they're getting closer and closer to coil-like feel, but i don't see them matching it for some time. you'll be happy with either, it isn't a huge decision, so don't stress. figure out other parts that are more of a priority and then see if you have the extra dollars left over to go air if that is really the move you want to make.

[El Gordo]

Cole I was looking back at your posts, You said you are mainly gonna do freeride and the ocassional DH.. I am not sure if you got the DirtBag already but as I sit here thinking now that you said your 120lb and you main riding is gonna be FR.. If I was you and this is just my .02 here... a kick ass build you would proably enjoy more than the DB.. A Bottlerocket dude.. Stats:::

Bottle Rocket
Fork = either a new 08 Zook 55 or a Rock SHox Lyrik
Rear SHox = DHX air or a TST Air
Cranks - Race Face Atlas
E-13 DRS
Avid Code's or Juicy 7's
823's laced to Hopes or Hadleys
2.5 tires
And go with all your other stuff

Bro this is perfect for you, I mean a DB is a great bike but it a bit geared towards DH and I mean you dont really need that 6.7 inches of travel.. I mean I have been on a Preston and I weigh 235lb and been hitting Diablo hard no probs yes I know I need more of a Bike so I am building a Blindside prob solved.. But at 120lb for FR the dirtbag is a gonna be on the heavy side for you it is gonna take some effort to throw that Bit*h around in the air aswell as pedaling.. With a BottleRocket you will have a blast and still have enough biketo do any DH that you want to do.. I was just riding my buddies today and it is such a sweet ride.. Think about that you want to kind of do it once and do it right kind of thing...

Thats why i said get out there and ride some bikes see what you like Air or Coil etc etc.before you drop serious coin on stuff... Trust me i wish I did a bit more, I am on my 3rd fork this year and my second frame just cause I didnt just take my time and really think about what i wanted instead of just forum shopping you know..

[joelsman]

I had a dirt bag and now have a bottle rocket, the bottle rocket is great but I notice the lack of travel on some trails. the BR jumps and turns better, but big bumps not so nice,

cole- if your riding is smoother and more new school fr(slopestyle) get a bottlerocket, but if your trails are bumpier and you like drops the dirtbag is better. I am going to get another long travel bike this winter for riding the rough trails, bottle rocket isn't a big bike. dirt bag is a good inbetween size, perfect for an only, do it all bike.

don't get Ti spring, you are growing and would need a new spring every year and ti is $$$.

I have been happy w/ my dhx air, I added a cap full of ATF into the air chamber to help lube the seals and make the air spring ramp up some. this helps small bump sensitivity and bottom out without adding to much damping which makes the shock feel dead.

your build spec looks nice.

[King*Cole]

according to the tranition website the dirtbag actually weighs slightly less than the bottlerocket and i do more drops and stuff so i think im going to go with the dirtbag. I think the air would be better for me just becuz i dont wanna have to get a ti spring beucz i'll have to replace spring each year as someone mentioned. I would like to test out an air shock first tho...