Code 5 issues

[paranoid56]

good afternoon all. i just got a set of Code 5s and they seem spongy. right out of the box they felt like crap. I can pull the lever to the bars somewhat easy. I rebleed them (as best i could with there kit) and it was a little better, but still bad. I have been on a few easy rides to brake in the pads, but it doesn't get better. almost hit a car going down a small hill were the brakes wouldn't stop me.

anybody have any ideas?

also, does anybody else have issues with the bleeding? i don't like how it doesn't have a normal bleeder screw. it has a bolt that comes out and you put the syringe in, so when you take it out, some fluid escapes. seems like a ****ty deign.

please let me konw. :D
Thanks

[mandown]

ouch. i'm interested, as i've been looking at a set of codes.

[reidhresko]

uh, get the codes with pad dial adjuster?

[mandown]

fantastic advice for the guy who already has the other set. "just go out and drop another $500 on some more brakes."

[coma13]

did you bed in the pads?

[paranoid56]

yes, i bed in the pads per the directions.
and to the other guy, i just bought these, would rather not buy another set ;D
SHane

[V-Dub GTI]

Drain and put all new DOT 4+ fluid in. The spongy feel is because there is air/water vapor in the brake fluid.

[El Gordo]

Yeah get some new codes cause not having the adjuster is the problem :banghead:

Anyway dude I just got a pari to you know from the other post we talked.. I usually bleed my own brakes but this time I had the LBS do it cause they were helping me out with a derailuer problem and they felt fine not spongy at all and I had them use DOT 5.1 is what you should use on those brakes. But I would rebleed them its a bleeding problem when they feel spongy like that and worst case take it to the LBS I think its like 20 bucks to bleed brakes and if its still there then you know what you have to do. But both my buddies put the code 5's and I helped them bleed and they felt awesome thats what made me get the 5's.... So I would try that let me know how you make out..

[paranoid56]

i did drain and put in new fluid. still ****ty. gordo, what was your bleeding tech?

THanks
Shane

[DavidMakalaster]

When you bleed them don't tie the lever all the way back to the bar. This will overfill the system a little and bring your contact point out. Make sure you use DOT 5.1.

[El Gordo]

Second what Dave just said, and I pretty much just followed the info from avid. But like I said I used DOT 5.1 are you using it or 4..

[paranoid56]

i am using dot4 and will go pick up some 5.1 tomorrow. and i will try it with out tieing hte lever to the bars. also, what do you guys do about the fluid that leaks out of the caliper?

Shane

[Carnaza]

i just bought a pair of 08 code (with the pad adjuster dial) and they were very spongy... so i went to my local shop and re-bleed them and we found some dot fluid in the line (it was almost only air)...

we re-bleeded them and now they are pretty good... no spongy at all..

i cannot realize why sram/avid says their brakes are pre-bleeded and ready to ride... but they always came with air in the line... i have been user of 1 pair of juicys 1 pair of 07 codes and 1 pair of 08 codes:disgust1: :disgust1:

[DirtyMike]

Send them back and get a new set. They have good warranty and CS, just look out for tony. The DoT5.1 works really good though in Avid brakes By the way, but i have had a few sets of codes that had to be sent back to avid now, we will probably be seeing an update to the overall design soon

[El Gordo]

Yeah run the 5.1 and try again. I still say if you have to take it to your LBS for bleed before you send them back why not. But like was said if not return them AVID does have good CS.. Good Luck

[paranoid56]

ok, rebleed them again with 5.1 fluid. still ****ty. but, i did push out the lever out some with the adjuster and its better. still seems spungy, but at least i can now lock them up. also, feel they are a bit too far out now. my old ones were closer to the bar by almost an inch. also, my hayes 9s felt firmer then these.
heres a pic of how far out the lever is out.
http://www.camotoy.com/misc/images/IMG_4445.JPG

[SpastikSlingkee]

what do you guys do about the fluid that leaks out of the caliper?

well theres ur problem... :brows: ...i think there might be a leak in the line. Get em replaced

[paranoid56]

no, since these dont have a normal nipple bleed screw, you take out a bolt then you screw in the syringe. so, there is not way to take the syringe out with out leaking some fluid.

Shane

[Bicyclist]

Adjust your reach via the allen bolt.

[Broken_Spoke]

no, since these dont have a normal nipple bleed screw, you take out a bolt then you screw in the syringe. so, there is not way to take the syringe out with out leaking some fluid.

Shane

I haven't delt with Codes but taking a part out and having oil leak out that seems like air is getting in. Are you sure you have to take the bolt out?

[paranoid56]

yea, its a bad design. here is the bleed kit. notice that you have the screw these in to bleed them. i wish they just had a normal nipple fitting.

also, i did ajust the reach, i had to put them that far out to get them to work worth a ****.
http://www.sram.com/_media/images/avid/accessories/bleedkit_large.jpg

[bwolmarans]

its not the dot 5.1 or dot 4
seriously that will not cause your issue, in fact it would be better with all water (but don't do that) because you're just trying to fill the pipe with fluid that doesnt compress like air. the dot is for heat, seal longevity etc.
I'm not an expert on bike brakes or anything to do with bikes but brakes are not that complex The only thing that will make the brakes feel like there is air in the lines getting compressed is air in the lines or a big bubble somewhere in the system. I know you re-bled them but try it again and do something different this time. The definition of insanity is doing the same action over and over and expecting different results :-)

[TheInedibleHulk]

The answer is simple, you suck at bleeding brakes. There is nothing wrong with the brakes or the avid bleed kit, in fact I would say its the best in the business. Instead of just pushing more and more fluid through, use the two syringes to work it back and forth. This will dislodge stuck air bubbles in the caliper, which happens frequently with new brakes. Other than that, its just touch and experience.

[Yeti]

As TheInedibleHulk said, you must really suck at bleeding brakes. Avid bleeding system is one of the easiest to use, if you follow the instructions. For the first time, I recommend you download them, print them and have them next to you while you bleed the brakes. If you really do step by step what they tell you to do then it will work....if it doesn't work there is something wrong with the brakes. If they feel spongy after you have bleed them, and you don't see any fluid coming out at any point in the system then you haven't done it right.
Really, take some time ...and patience:
first the caliper with the lever pressed, this is to isolate the whole hose/lever part of the system from the caliper circuit. Then open unpress the lever and push some fluid through the lines and let it come out. then close the caliper and bleed the lever. Always be careful with the syringes, and letting the fluid rest and get all the small air bubbles out by depressurizing the syringes....everything should be explained in the instructions. so good luck, and trust me...the brakes are ok, it's you who needs to get better at bleeding.

[boardrider3030]

The code bleeding process is perfect IMO, one thing that is important is taking the time to prepare the syringes. You need to keep tappping them to ensure that ALL of the tiny air bubbles are eliminated. (by tapping them)

[wanabe]

First, the break in period for this brake is redonkulous. Check your rotors and make shure they are nice and shiny and the cliper is square to the rotor. Also, when you are pushing the fluid through the brake system, tap the lines, caliper, and lever body with the back of a screwdriver. Don't beat the crap out of your bike! The tapping will shake loose any air bubbles.