beginning racing

[LoboDelFuego]

So, I thought this day would never come, but I've committed to joining my university's road team, which means I'm in the market for a road bike. Getting a new bike would be nice, but I figure for around $1200 I can probably get something pretty decent if I go used, and road bikes can't really take that much punishment, right? Some questions:

-Is there a parallel universe roadie equivalent to rm? I don't want to buy off eBay but the classifieds selection here is kind of minimal.
-Carbon seatstays...reliable? Seems like a really sketch idea to me.
-I'm told the team has a "deep" discount from Orbea, any experience with those?

I could spend more but I'm going to have to buy alot of new equipment (jerseys, shorts, extra razors, etc.) And, by the way, I'm looking for a ~58 cm frame.

[Serial Midget]

Your team's coach should have a line on whats available locally. Find the local sponsored road race team - many teams get good deals on frames and sell last years models reasonably.

[LoboDelFuego]

I'm in New York for the summer (attend uchicago) and this is the best time to ride, so I want to pick up something used soon. The deal with Orbea is expired, so forget that. Any recommendations on a roadie ridemonkey that might offer better classifieds?

[GravityFreakTJ]

see my Spam-O-Riffic thread in here. Might interest you.

TJ

[-dustin]

see my Spam-O-Riffic thread in here. Might interest you.

TJ
i agree.

[DirtyMike]

Actually if you have 1200 bucks Buy new. You would be suprized how nice of a bike you can get. Should be able to get something with a 105 group on it, maybe youll have to go with tiagra shifters but thats ok. As far as the carbon seatstays, those will be fine, i wouldnt go full carbon myself, and personally i like a SL alumunum frame or a Steel frame. When talking to others dont ever let someone tell you that a steel frame is a heavy bike, that is absolutly false. it just depends on the build. Also keep in mind you dont have to start off with the best componets, no matter which componets you get there gonna wear out.

Here is a great buy on a starter bike



http://www.cannondale.com/bikes/07/cusa/road/caad8/model-7RA82T.html

And for comparision


http://www2.trekbikes.com/bikes/bike.php?bikeid=1440000&f=3


One last to show

http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=21898

[TreeSaw]

Orbea's are beautiful machines, but very pricey! Definitely check with your coach and see what he has to offer. The bikes that DirtyMike posted are all nice solid machines. I actually bought my bike on roadbikereview (sister site of mtbr). Good luck!

[-dustin]

of the bikes posted by DM, i'd look at the CAAD8. over time, it can be turned into a rather stealthy ride. i would upgrade to Ultegra shifters, though, as i believe the gap between Ultegra and 105/ Tiagra/ etc shifters is rather large. you'll definitely feel a quality difference as well as notice a performance difference.

[DirtyMike]

Yeah i listed those from favorite to least. And those are just a few examples too, there are a bunch of different entry line bikes you can get into that youll be very happy spending 1200 on, Personally i do really like teh Caad8, but the Trek does have a little better componet line up

[LoboDelFuego]

Thanks for the offer on the Six13, but I think a decent set of wheels would cost most than $300, and I probably need a slightly larger frame (wrenchscience recommended a 59 cm)

I will look into the cannondale, because everyone seems to prefer it, and the team LBS will probably give me a slight discount. Still, looking around at ads it seems like the used market offers much better value. Is this just my inexperience talking? It seems like a 5-6 year old road bike would still be viable, whereas in the mtb world a rig that old is probably destroyed. e.g. in the rm classifieds there's a 10 year old fondriest being sold, which would be ridiculous for an mtb.

[DirtyMike]

Well, it depends on the rider of Said bike, if they ride like me<Pounder and cranker> then your not gonna want there frame, but if they babied it then youll be ok. Unlike a Mtn bike, one crash can leave unseen dangers in a road bike. and that just comes from only being able to shave soo much weight before myou start shaving strength. And of coarse, is the person your buying it from being totally honest when they tell you why they are selling it, dont want to end up buying someone else problems. I would say though to go to the LBS and test ride a few of the above entry lines before you make a final decision.

[MtnbikeMike]

You can't go wrong with an aluminum C'dale. Stiff frame, doesn't ride too harsh. They're great for racing.

[Serial Midget]

While I wouldn't think twice about buying a 10 year old used frame made by a quality custom manufacturer; I would be very hesitant to buy a production frame that has actually been raced more than a season or two. Many guys who are into racing are on tight budgets and need to maximize the return on their cast-offs. They'll tell you whatever you want to hear as long as you are willing to pay their price.

Talk to the guys on your team - ask them about local clubs. The best deals are often sitting unused in someone's garage or basement.

[LordOpie]

Really good info in this thread, but you did ask for more sources, so...
http://bikeforums.net/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=-1&f=33

[loco-gringo]

You can't go wrong with an aluminum C'dale. Stiff frame, doesn't ride too harsh. They're great for racing.

:confused: And here I thought the doping in cycling was just for performance enhancement. :think:




:D

[sunny]

Thanks for the offer on the Six13, but I think a decent set of wheels would cost most than $300, and I probably need a slightly larger frame (wrenchscience recommended a 59 cm)

I will look into the cannondale, because everyone seems to prefer it, and the team LBS will probably give me a slight discount. Still, looking around at ads it seems like the used market offers much better value. Is this just my inexperience talking? It seems like a 5-6 year old road bike would still be viable, whereas in the mtb world a rig that old is probably destroyed. e.g. in the rm classifieds there's a 10 year old fondriest being sold, which would be ridiculous for an mtb.

A few things to keep in mind:

Bikes are typically sized from the center of the BB to the top of the seat tube. Back when most frames had horizontal top tube (and TT = ST length), it was fine to compare sizes of one manufacturer to another. However, these days many bikes have a sloping top tube (compact design). A sloping TT will provide better stand-over height, and hopefully weigh slightly less - smaller triangle, less material, less weight is the idea.

So, now you have to ask, if it's a 58 or 59, and has a sloping TT, HOW is the bike measured? Center BB to top of the welds? Center BB to a virtual horizontal? And even so, this size does not give you what many people consider to be a more important measurement: [B]the effective TT length. I can raise or lower my seatpost as I wish, but I'm stuck with the TT length, apart from shortening or lengthening my stem.

A 58 Cannondale will have a shorter effective TT length than a 58 Specialized.

When looking at bikes for proper fit:
1. When seated on the bike with your hands on the hoods and a comfortable (slight) bend in your arms, when you look down at the juncture of the stem and the handlebar, your line of sight should have the handlebar obscuring the hub. You should not see it. If it is significantly in front or behind the handlebar, you are probably on the wrong size bike. If it is slightly behind or in front, you can correct this with a stem adjustment.

2. Don't let anyone push the seat forward or aft to change the line of sight and hide the hub. It will likely misalign your knees over the spindle at the top of your stroke.

Testride bikes at shops. If you do not intend to purchase there, then go in with a large pizza or a case of beer in hand on a slow Tuesday during the first week of the month and ask them to have pity on you. Their time and expertise are valuable. If you acknowledge this, most reasonable shop employees will help you out.

BTW, a quick note about roadbikes and performance geometry:
Shorter headtube and wheelbase = more agile, more manuverable, also more squirly over longer distances. This is probably what you are looking for (the agility, not the squirrel factor)
Taller headtube, longer wheelbase = more stability, greater comfort. Best for longer-distance rides.

Good luck!

[LoboDelFuego]

This is really helpful, thanks a lot. From everyone's emphasis on fit, it seems like I should definitely test ride any bike I buy, which rules out the classifieds. So, final question: My budget can stretch up to about $1600 - is it worth it to spring for a slightly better component mix, or should I just wait to replace things as they fail? I'm not really sure of how road bikes wear.

[Wumpus]

is it worth it to spring for a slightly better component mix?

Yes to a point. 105/Ultegra, ???/Chorus, ???SCAM???

is I'm not really sure of how road bikes wear.


Road bike stuff tends to last quite a while. Rings, cogs and chains maybe not so.

[LoboDelFuego]

From ~1200 to ~1600 the jump seems to be from a random mix of tiagra, sugino and low-end truvativ stuff, to full 105 groupset and lighter wheels.

[-dustin]

http://planocycling.com/itemdetails.cfm?catalogId=39&sort=priceasc&id=6357

[sunny]

This is really helpful, thanks a lot. From everyone's emphasis on fit, it seems like I should definitely test ride any bike I buy, which rules out the classifieds. So, final question: My budget can stretch up to about $1600 - is it worth it to spring for a slightly better component mix, or should I just wait to replace things as they fail? I'm not really sure of how road bikes wear.
Specialized Allez (http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=21894)is what I'd recommend. Stiff and responsive Aluminum frame with carbon fork and seatstays with rubber Zertz inserts to provide vibration damping.

Shimano 105 is not a bad component group to start with.

Chain and tires wear at about the same rate. Look to replace them at about 1000 miles. If you replace your chain often enough, you will not wear out the rest of your drivetrain as quickly.

Compact double crankset (50x34) gives you greater versatility when climbing hills, but will not sprint in the highest gears (53 + 11) like a standard double (53x39). If this is confusing, ask someone to explain double and compact double to you, and tell you which one it is you are looking at when you test ride.