2007 boxxer team help

[dh gangster]

Hey i have a brand new 07 boxxer team (well ridden once) and i put a soft spring in it. I've checked the exploded diagrams and i know i put the spring in right. I know my shop set it up with exactly 203mm of space to the crown, but when i looked at my fork lately i noticed it didn't look like the full travel. I measured and its got about a half inch or 15mm from 203mm in the fork tubes. (basically the fork tube doesn't have full travel showing.) I've heard something about suction in the right leg that sometimes happens that can prematurely suck the fork into its travel, but i dunno. What's goin on?

[Bicyclist]

Yup, they have a lotta negative travel. That just means it's supple. Ride it.

[SteezyWeezy]

throw it away, its broken

[dh gangster]

but its still got the reduced travel when its unloaded.

[hungryleprican]

have you tried putting the other spring back in? and comparing the length of both springs right next to eachother?

[Bicyclist]

Pull down on the fork and it'll probably extend fully.

[E.T.]

Your problem is the lubricating oil bath for the bushings on the motion control side. What I have found is that since essentially the bottom of the stanchion on the motion control damper is sealed off, at bottom out there is almost no room whatsoever for the lubricating oil causing a hydraulic lock which limits your travel. Stock oil bath volume on the MC side of the fork is only 15ml/cc. I have found that in order to get full travel you need to drain this oil and run EXACTLY 5-8cc of 5wt oil. I believe the 07's came with a much heavier Red Rum type oil (90wt or so) so it could take a while to drain. Basically with the fork removed you want to clamp your spring side stanchion in a bike stand with the fork vertical (the lowers of the fork downward). Remove your rebound knob by simply pulling it downward. Then using a 5mm allen you loosen the bottom bolt all of the way. Then you thread it back in 2 turns or so and strike the bolt upwards with a mallet. This will unseat the motion control damper from the fork lowers. Then you remove the bottom bolt that you just struck, and with a drain pan under the fork pull upwards on your motion control stanchion until the oil begins to drain (you can do this without removing your stanchion completely from the lowers). Once all of the oil is drained you will need to accurately measure 5-8cc of 5wt fork oil (most any weight will do though) with a syringe then being careful not to let your stancion come out of the lowers, flip the fork over in the stand and pump the lube into the lowers through the empty bolt hole on the bottom of your fork. You may need to make sure the stanchion is extended away from the lowers slightl to open up a big enough gap for the oil to go in THEN push your stanchion TOWARDS the lowers until it is the same height as the other spring side stanchion, install the allen bolt (to Rockshox torque settings) install your rebound adjuster and your good to go!

Whew that was a long one. Let me know how it goes.

Cheers,

Evan

[E.T.]

wait a minute...I might have completely mis understood you. It sounds like you need to pull down on your fork with the spring side top cap off and then check to make sure you have enough preload on the spring. The top of the spring with spacers should just barely overlap the threads on the inside of your stanchion when you have the fork fully extended.

BUT it could be the MC side if this is not the case...

I give up. The internet sucks at trying to fix problems. It's too damn hard to make yourself understood.

[dh gangster]

On the contrary the spring with its preload spacer stuck up a little bit out of the fork leg, so that shouldn't be a problem. And if i do this will the fork still be under the warranty of rockshox?

thanks for your help.

[hungryleprican]

EDIT:

pm dave

[dh gangster]

yeah i was just gonna get some opinions so i could get an idea of what to tell em before i take it in saturday, and if they couldn't help me then i might mess with it. carefully.
and i dont believe that it not being broken in would make a difference.

[davep]

If you are comming into town this weekend, bring over and I will trouble shoot/fix it for you. I can also show you how to work on it.

Harry can vouch for me.

(unless of course, if adam is not going to charge you for working on it, that will work)

[Eren]

mine does the same thing, so did so did stephebns when he first got his. . i dont know what it is, i just noticed it today riding around the street

[hungryleprican]

If you are comming into town this weekend, bring over and I will trouble shoot/fix it for you. I can also show you how to work on it.

Harry can vouch for me.

DANG! I take my last statement back


give dave a ring- he will fix that right up for ya!


How are you by the way dave?

[davep]

OK...the back is slowely getting better after a lovely surgery between x-mas and new year. ...School is going to suk this term..Oh yea, someone got into my garage last week and stole my DHR...

Other than that, I am looking foreward to this summer and the idea of being able to ride again.....mmmm Whistler!!

[hungryleprican]

OK...the back is slowely getting better after a lovely surgery between x-mas and new year. ...School is going to suk this term..Oh yea, someone got into my garage last week and stole my DHR...

Other than that, I am looking foreward to this summer and the idea of being able to ride again.....mmmm Whistler!!

NO WAY?! thats terrible. that pisses me off just hearing that- plus that bike was dialed! What are you planning on getting next? Also, whens the back supposed to be all set?-Hopefully before you get your hands on a new cycle

[Udi]

dh gangster -
The boxxer bushings are generally a little tight and sticky when the forks are brand new, only noticeable at the very start of the stroke. Give it a couple days of runs and it should start returning to full travel, and become much more active at the beginning of the stroke.

I wouldn't worry about it at all until you've given them some ride time. What you mention is perfectly normal. If it bugs you, try running a few extra preload spacers temporarily.

I have found that in order to get full travel you need to drain this oil and run EXACTLY 5-8cc of 5wt oil.

I think you've misunderstood his problem. The issue is that it doesn't return all the way to zero travel, not that it won't use all the travel.

Anyway, i'd definitely suggest NOT running 5-8cc. That 15ml per lower leg is all that is lubing your bushings, reducing the quantity is going to greatly accelerate bushing wear. While the volume in the lowers at bottom out is small, not being able to bottom out is generally a side effect of too much (positive) air in the lowers - NOT because of excess lube oil. To solve this, simply undo the footnuts and tap the rods so they break free of the lower and push them up - a long 8mm bolt is handy (you'll also want to undo the spring topcap on the team/race and drain the solo air on the wc). Then, compress the lowers halfway (while holding the two rods up to allow air to escape) and then do up the footnuts normally.

Just to prove my point - I can bottom out (hard against bumpers) with 20ml per leg. Don't skimp on it as I said, because it keeps those bushings alive. :)

[dh gangster]

thanks udi.
and thanks for offering to help me dave, i really appreciate that.
yeah theres nothing really wrong with the actual feel, its just when i see the fork not going back to 0 travel it just seems a little odd. im just a little paranoid at the new fork ya know?
if i ride it and break it in and it's still actin up ill give dave a little pm action and id love to sort things out, if it gets to that.
thanks for all the help guys.

cheers.