...must...buy...sooOON!....

[Nobody]

Next $100 won't be on bikes...

[Changleen]

Wow the grain is very pretty. I love those Asian style knives. Very easy to chop with.

[Nobody]

Wow the grain is very pretty. I love those Asian style knives. Very easy to chop with.

Cutting edge profile is around 30-degrees. Very very sharp. Classic European edge around 50-degrees.

[OGRipper]

Didn't realize Calphalon was selling blades. I like the handle design. That angle - same as Global?

[stosh]

Cutting edge profile is around 30-degrees. Very very sharp. Classic European edge around 50-degrees.

What does that mean?

[Nobody]

Didn't realize Calphalon was selling blades. I like the handle design. That angle - same as Global?

Pretty much. Very fine edge.

[DamienC]

My daily-use chef's knife was given to me by my dad as a gift when he went to Kinmen Island, between Taiwan and mainland China, to research some family roots there. It's made by an outfit called Maestro Wu which forges knives using steel from melted down artillery shells, of which this particular island has an abundant supply from the years of constant back-and-forth shelling between this Taiwanese controlled island and the mainland. Apparently if you visit the factory showroom you can have a custom knife made from an artillery shell of your choosing.

http://www.aronsonsjournal.com/Taiwan2003/15.html

[Nobody]

What does that mean?

This....

Japanese knives typically have a 20-degree bevel and a smooth edge. European knives typically have a 40-50-degree bevel and a micro-serrated edge.

Euro knives cut by a micro saw and Japanese cut by a razor slice.

The best way to see this is by cutting a ripe [almost over-ripe, but not quite] tomato with a single slice by first one, then the other type of edge.

Both will cut. Both, when sharp, will cut cleanly.

My knives, when properly sharpened [which is about 95% of the time - unless I'm dating someone, when it drops about 20%, for some unknown reason] will cut completely through a ripe Roma tomato with only the weight of the knife exerting downwards pressure!

This is just a test i use to make sure i have the edge i want. Normally i chop tomatoes just like anyone else...

Now, back to the test.

With an Asian [Chinese higher quality knives are about the same as the Japanese] edge, the tomato has a glossy finish in the cut.

The Euro edge has a satin finish.

This applies to meat, sort of...

All my knives can cut through a Tri-tip, roast prime rip, steak, boneless leg-o-lamb in a single stroke!

I hate - no I HATE having to 'hacksaw' through food...

[Silver]

Is that single bevel?

[DRB]

Is cutlery and more a good source for knives online? Or is it just a random photo?

[Nobody]

Is cutlery and more a good source for knives online? Or is it just a random photo?

When i lived in the US, that was the best general purpose cutlery joint i bought stuff from.

Prices were about as good as they get, you'd get free stuff if you bought more than $xx or whatever promotion was going on..

Sometimes free shipping.

And if you totally pucked up the edge, they'd re-sharpen it for $5 or something on a pro machine.

After about $2000 of orders over about 5 years, i'd never had an bad transaction or screwed up order.

Up here, I got a local guy who gets me what i need at wholesale.

[stosh]

This....

Japanese knives typically have a 20-degree bevel and a smooth edge. European knives typically have a 40-50-degree bevel and a micro-serrated edge.

Euro knives cut by a micro saw and Japanese cut by a razor slice.

The best way to see this is by cutting a ripe [almost over-ripe, but not quite] tomato with a single slice by first one, then the other type of edge.

Both will cut. Both, when sharp, will cut cleanly.

My knives, when properly sharpened [which is about 95% of the time - unless I'm dating someone, when it drops about 20%, for some unknown reason] will cut completely through a ripe Roma tomato with only the weight of the knife exerting downwards pressure!

This is just a test i use to make sure i have the edge i want. Normally i chop tomatoes just like anyone else...

Now, back to the test.

With an Asian [Chinese higher quality knives are about the same as the Japanese] edge, the tomato has a glossy finish in the cut.

The Euro edge has a satin finish.

This applies to meat, sort of...

All my knives can cut through a Tri-tip, roast prime rip, steak, boneless leg-o-lamb in a single stroke!

I hate - no I HATE having to 'hacksaw' through food...




My knives say "made in China" does that mean they have a 20-degree bevel and a smooth edge?









j/k
Thanks for the info!

[macko]

I have a set of knives I bought from IKEA. They cost me about $12 and work great. :)

[Nobody]

Hey, I could sharpen the back of an old rusty wood saw, drill a couple holes with my dremel, pound some wood together, total cost = free.

unless a few hours of my time isn't totally worthless...

but then, technically, i could ride a Huffy offroad and tell everyone i've got a mountain bike...

[TreeSaw]

:drool: That's a sexy piece of machinery right there!

[OGRipper]

Is cutlery and more a good source for knives online? Or is it just a random photo?

I've also had good luck with the Knife Merchant:

www.knifemerchant.com.

[DRB]

So I finally saw these knives in person. And they are very nice. The handle is comfortable and the balance and weight are superior to my current chef knife. Here's the rub. With the handle and bolster design, they won't sit right in a standard knife block, a good bit of blade protrudes from the slots. Not a good situation.

I really liked the knife but buying a new block wasn't something I really had in mind.

[Nobody]

So I finally saw these knives in person. And they are very nice. The handle is comfortable and the balance and weight are superior to my current chef knife. Here's the rub. With the handle and bolster design, they won't sit right in a standard knife block, a good bit of blade protrudes from the slots. Not a good situation.

I really liked the knife but buying a new block wasn't something I really had in mind.

Yeah, I noticed that, too. But, then, I've had similar problems with blocks for years - always something not fitting.

I use, wherever possible, a magnetic strip.

But, with the moves and such of late, I do have a block that accommodates the bolsters on these.

Ah well, nothing's perfect.

[TreeSaw]

Yeah, I noticed that, too. But, then, I've had similar problems with blocks for years - always something not fitting.

I use, wherever possible, a magnetic strip.

But, with the moves and such of late, I do have a block that accommodates the bolsters on these.

Ah well, nothing's perfect.

I have a magnetic strip for my santuko knives, my bread knife and my sandwich spreader and it's great! :thumb:

[BikeGeek]

Cutting edge profile is around 30-degrees. Very very sharp. Classic European edge around 50-degrees.
Nice looking knife. Are all your knives the same profile or is that going to take some getting used to when running it down the steel?

While we're talking sharpening, my ex brother-in-law (a chef) gave me a nice set of Wusthof classics for christmas a while ago. I understand the reasons for honing on a steel and do so regularly, but my knives just don't seem to have the bite they used to. Can I get that edge back at home or do I need to go to a pro?

[Nobody]

Nice looking knife. Are all your knives the same profile or is that going to take some getting used to when running it down the steel?

While we're talking sharpening, my ex brother-in-law (a chef) gave me a nice set of Wusthof classics for christmas a while ago. I understand the reasons for honing on a steel and do so regularly, but my knives just don't seem to have the bite they used to. Can I get that edge back at home or do I need to go to a pro?

I use a ceramic sharpening 'steel' with a wooden handle to keep sharp things sharp. Yes, it took a while to get used to the very low angle, but it was easier this way because I'm just to adjusting things with my hands [all those years as a mechanic served me some good, after all...

I have a couple of Kasumi knives that are around 8-12 degrees [close to razorblade!] that are good training.

[Secret Squirrel]

I'm a knife n00b, but like sharp things...

So...I was wondering if this (http://theknifeshop.com/product/350333.jpg) was a good way to keep my Henckels sharp...as n00bs go.....???

[I've noticed that it works better in tandem with a couple runs down the steel as well to take the burr off... They seem to be able to slice through a tomato with the slightest pressure after I get done with the process, but don't really stay that sharp for very long (Prolly the sh*tty cutting boards I have...).]

Anyway, in looking to maximize my slicing and dicing ability, what's a good upgrade in sharpening technology? (don't really care about learning curve...my knives are just the generic 12-set henckels...)...

[bean]

I love my Wusthof Santoku. It's a near religious experience to use it.