Help with Supercross MX26 Build...

[MotoCycle]

This is a repost from the singlespeed forum, but I was advised to post the thread here...

I just picked up a new Supercross MX26XL (http://www.supercrossbmx.com/mx26detail.html) off of Ebay for $169 incl S&H. I haven't had a bike since I got into motorcycles about 6 years ago and am completely new to the scene. This is my first bike build and was wondering if anyone could point me towards good inexpensive (not cheap) parts. I was planning on running 24" wheels, but was told I'd want to go with 26" for this frame in the other thread (http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/showthread.php?t=165136). My thought is to make the bike a singlespeed (still open to the idea of running a derailure though) for a mix of urban/dirt jumping. Thanks in advance for any help!!

[XBGM3R]

Congratulation, wow frame is very neat and fancy.. I wish you best luck with frame you build and customize in future..

GOOD LUCK!

[formermtboarder]

thahs a cool frame, hes right about the 26" wheels, prob a good idea. Looks liek fun.

For parts just check out the rm classifieds for great deals. Im sure you could find everything for less than 500 if you shopped well.

[MotoCycle]

Does anyone have any fork recommendations for this frame? I saw the Dirt Jumpers are pretty cheap on Ebay... Also, does the length of the steerer tube matter if it's already cut?

[fiddy_ryder]

if youre looking for a budget fork, try to find a used Pike or a use marzocchi z1 and have the travel reduced by nemesis project

[MotoCycle]

Thanks for the tip on the fork! I've been trying to read through these forums and pick up on what to put on this thing but I'm having trouble finding anyone with 26" projects... How old of a Pike or Z1 would I want to get or does it matter?

The frame came in today. Here's a couple of pics:

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g136/redtuono/frame2.jpg

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g136/redtuono/frame1.jpg

[Bicyclist]

Alright.

So, as far as some parts go, here's my point oh two.

-Brakes: I'd recommend Avid BB-7s. They're strong, simple, and cheap, with good power.

-Wheels: For the rear hub, find a 135mm spaced disc hub with a "fun bolt" kit like CK uses. Basically you want a bolt on rear hub. For the front hub, if you're using a 20mm system, I'd recommend something cheap. Diatech, Marzocchi, whatev. Nice front hubs are a waste of money. For rims, I don't know how heavy you are and what your style is but I like Sun Rhyno Lite XLs myself. I'd go 14g spokes and brass nips too.

-Fork: Dirt Jumpers are IMO too heavy, I'd look at a Pike, a lowered Z1, or a Sherman.

Just a few recommendations for ya.

[Changleen]

Bicyclist has good taste, but personally I'd splash out on hydraulic disks, maybe Shimano XT or Saint, but that is a bit of a thing for me... your miles may vary. Also I prefer Marz. to other forks, recently the DJs have been way too heavy it's true, but just try and get 03 DJs, they're not too heavy, and still strong - or the new Z1s are just about right too I recon, but you need to reduce the travel.

[MotoCycle]

Well, I've been doing a little reasearch on the forks and have a few questions:

It looks like there have been a few good deals on the 2005 Z1 FR3 forks and Nemesis Project sells lowering kits for 65, 80, or 100mm. Would I want to go with the 100mm kit if I find a Z1?

On the 2003 Dirt Jumpers, was Changleen talking about the I, II, or III? Does it matter?

[Mudpuppy]

Look at The specs for the frame and lower the Z1 to the length that the frame was designed around. Changleen didn't specify but the DJ1 is the best model and most people really don't like the DJ3 so.... it's up to you...I'd go DJ1 if I was going to buy a DJ but really the Z1 should be much nicer in my opinion.

[mikeG]

I have one & love it. I would run it as a SS. My build is as follows:

Fox Float 100mm fork
Thompson Stem & post
Easton Bars
King headset
Hadley Hubs (rear is SS casette) laced on Mavics
Hope minis
Saint cranks
Kenda small blocks

My build isn't the cheapest you would find but everything is personal preference and what is in your budget.

If you go SS I would recomend Shimano Hones as a good budget crankset.

Good luck and you will have a good time with that bike.

[Bicyclist]

The Z1 FR III is a perfect fork. I'd recommend 80mm of travel, as Zokes are a bit tall so..

[Cru Jones]

I just slapped on a Manitou Gold Label Jump Series II and I'm lovin it. It's tons lighter than my old Dirt Jumper III. You might want to check it out. And you got a nice deal on a Rad frame!!

[corey_rideDC]

that's a great looking bike, helluva find for $170!! if you're even slightly mechanically inclined you can lower the travel of a marzocchi Z1 or DJ yourself. instructions here (http://www.dcstreet.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=289)

[Cru Jones]

Dude, that cat is scary looking...

[MotoCycle]

Thanks for all the help!

If anybody else is interested in this frame, the original seller still has 3 left... Original Ebay Seller (http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-06-SUPERCROSS-MX26-FRAME-BOMBPROOF_W0QQitemZ140027287784QQihZ004QQcategoryZ 98083QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

And then there's an even better deal on the frame... Some guy in Alaska bought one, never built it up, and is reselling. Makes a good deal even better... Ebay Reseller (http://cgi.ebay.com/New-2006-SUPERCROSS-MX26-frame-PRO-XL-with-BONUS-N-R_W0QQitemZ220024130986QQihZ012QQcategoryZ98083QQs sPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

[Evil4bc]

Well, I've been doing a little reasearch on the forks and have a few questions:

It looks like there have been a few good deals on the 2005 Z1 FR3 forks and Nemesis Project sells lowering kits for 65, 80, or 100mm. Would I want to go with the 100mm kit if I find a Z1?

On the 2003 Dirt Jumpers, was Changleen talking about the I, II, or III? Does it matter?

The current Z-1 kit comes with spacer for 65mm, 80mm and 100mm of travel so you can decide and tune for fork acordingly :bonk: yea it made sense to jsut include all the spacers so the customer can decide !

[monkeyboy424]

anyone know if the chaintensioners for this thing will work with any horizontal D/O frame, or is a a super cross specific deal.

im curious

[toothlesswonder]

Sorry for posting on an old thread, but I have a supercross and I love it.

You definately wouldnt want to run 24s. This bike is super low with 26's, and with 24's it would just feel weird. I have been running a nemesis project z1 sport at 90mm and its the best combo imho. I also ran it with the 6" z1 and it looks goofy but feels fine. You can only fit a 2.2" rear tire with the wheel all the way up in the dropouts and running single speed is tricky because it uses a 43mm chainline (bmx). If you run profile cranks its a piece of cake.

You will LOVE the bike. trust me!

[Changleen]

Sorry, I know it's way too late now but I meant yr. 2003 Dirt Jumpers, either DJ1, 2 or 3's from that year were just about the right weight IMO.

[MotoCycle]

Thanks for the advice tootlesswonder!

The bike build's been coming pretty slow and I still need to get ahold of a front fork... I'm really leaning towards the Manitou Gold Label Series 2 100mm or a cheap secondhand DirtJumper. I just can't justify spending the money on a modded Z1.

Here's what I've got so far:

Supercross MX26 Frame
Supercross Throttle Jockey Bars
Supercross Strongarm Cranks
FSA Orbit Xtreme Pro Headset
Phil Wood 36H Kiss Off Rear SS Disc Hub Laced to a Mavic XM321Disc
Odyssey Jim Cielencki Pedals

For the brakes, I'll probably go with the Hayes HFX9 since the rear hub is Hayes specific. It really is finding the fork that's holding me up though. I missed a couple of good Ebay deals already...

[fiddy_ryder]

used pike...

[toothlesswonder]

im actually selling my 06 z1 with both 150mm and the nemesis kit setups. im selling it for $300 shipped. just in case you were interested.....

[MotoCycle]

Thanks for the offer and it sounds like a great deal, but still more than I'm wanting to spend...

Quick question, does a dirt jumping/urban bike need a 36-spoke wheel in the front or can 32 suffice?

The only reason I ask is I came accross a deal on a 32-spoke disc front wheel. However, if I'm just going to have to replace it it wouldn't be much of a deal at all.

[toothlesswonder]

32 is fine. im a high tension wheel fan. if the rim is good you wont have any problems.

[AW_]

I am building up a MX26 as well; picked one up on Ebay a couple of weeks ago.

Just wanted to throw this out there: I have an 05 Pike Dual Air which I was planning to use, and the floodgate / compression adjuster hits the downtube on this frame. I removed the compression adjuster thumb screw and it the remaining post just barely grazes the downtube now.

I am running a FSA Pig headset which has a pretty tall stack height, so I can't easily swap the lower race for anything taller that I am aware of.

I seem to remember that in 04 or 05 there was a Pike that did not have the gold ano compression dial on the top, you had to reach in there with a hex wrench to adjust the floodgate. The plastic compression adjuster lever would still probably hit but like I said I think that could be shaved down. Or if you leave it all the way open or closed no problems.

Anyways just wanted to throw this info out there in case you are still deciding on forks. I really like the compression on the Pikes, you can set them up nice and stiff for popping off the lip but still have some squish when you need it.

Anyone considering this frame be aware that the so called 16.5" chainstay length is not accurate - that measurement is center of bb to beginning of dropout slot. Once you put a wheel in there, minimum chainstay length center to center is more like 16.75". Also rear tire clearance is somewhat limited... not a big deal considering what the frame is built for... but my Maxxis Larsen 2.35 (measures closer to 2.1 or 2.2) just barely fits. I tried a Mobster 2.3 (mounted on a spare wheel sitting in the shop - again closer to 2.1) and it would not clear with the wheel all the way forward.

Anyone have pics of their MX26 built up?

[CHepler]

Should be a picture of one set-up for 4X in this thread.

http://www.vintagebmx.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=20;t=000006;p=3#000 034

[toothlesswonder]

yeah totally right. the rear chainstay is loooooooooong. i dont have any problems manualing or bunny hopping though. also, sx will tell you that the mx26 takes a 26.8 seatpost, but mine took a 26.6. and im running an arrow racing 2.2 in the back with no clearance problems.

i would post a pic of mine but i dont know how.

[AW_]

Just for fun, here is what mine looked like built up.

Unfortunately it is a little bigger than what I want and the frame is back on Ebay. I'm going to pick up something else. Nice frame for the price.

[Thacker]

Here are some pics of my MX 26 in action

[cabalisticfire]

I don't post much around here but since I just finished my MX26 build I thought I'd post it up. I use it for DJ and pump track sessions.

Specs:
Supercross MX26, size long
Maverick SC32 fork adj travel 3", 5"
King headset w/custom top cap to fit BMX style bolt, 4 mm Ventana crown race.
Thomson X4 stem
Gravit lite bars
ODI grips
Marta brakes
Thomson post
Funn saddle
X9 drivetrain
Saint cranks
Atomlab trail king pedals
King hubs laced to silver Arrow XCL rims with black DT supercomp spokes, blue anno nipples. Hand built by yours truely
Schwalbe table top tires.

http://www.blacksheepcycles.com/Photopost/data/500/medium/supercross1.jpg

[cabalisticfire]

Oh, and yes, I know the cables are crazy right now, need to run the front brake through the top cap once I get settled on how many spacers I want to run.

[MotoCycle]

Sorry to reply to such an old thread, but I had left this project on the back burner and have gotten motivated again now that it's warming up...

I picked up a decent Sherman Flick off of Ebay, a front wheel (Hayes/DT 20mm thru axle hub, Sun Singletrack SL1 disc only rim, Wheelsmith 14g spokes), and Hayes HFX9 brakes.

I'm getting down to the finishing touches and was wondering about the Thomson seatposts. What length should I get? I'd rather not have to cut it in case I'd ever want to resell and the Masterpiece comes in as short as 250mm. They also have 330mm and 410mm sizes.

Thanks for any input...

[ÆX]

330 is good. a 410 might not go low enough for you.

[MotoCycle]

Will a 250mm work? I might have jumped the gun, but went ahead and bought one off Ebay this morning...

If not, anybody want a good deal on a new black 250mm Thomson Masterpiece?

[drt_jumper]

250 is pretty short, however I think you will be ok with it. Not a whole lot of bikes use a 26.6 seat post which is what yours is, (I know it say 26.8 on the site) but I have the same frame (In dayglow orange) and the seat tube was not honed after welding and a 26.8 wont fit.

[drt_jumper]

Nevermine just saw that you already had a post in the frame....mine just be messed up....must be why I got it for so cheap.

[MotoCycle]

OK, so I've finally got almost everything and have a few last questions...

1. What is a good rear axle and where can I find it? I'm just running a singlespeed and have a Phil Wood Kiss Off SS Rear Hub.

2. What kind of chain do you recommend and are there any dimension details I should worry about? For gearing, I'm going with a White Industries 16t freewheel and a Profile Imperial 33t chainwheel.

3. Any 26" tire/tube recommendations?

4. How have you guys spaced the front fork? I haven't built a bike before and was wondering how many spacers I should use and where I should get them.

Thanks for your patience and I appreciate the help!

[don]

OK, so I've finally got almost everything and have a few last questions...

1. What is a good rear axle and where can I find it? I'm just running a singlespeed and have a Phil Wood Kiss Off SS Rear Hub.

I would keep that slick bolt and washer that comes with the Phil Wood hub. Unless you are doing crazy street stuff the stock Phil Wood axle and bolt should be plenty strong. BTW - PhilWood stuff is the treats.

2. What kind of chain do you recommend and are there any dimension details I should worry about? For gearing, I'm going with a White Industries 16t freewheel and a Profile Imperial 33t chainwheel.

I usually run Sram PC-58 or 68's. Again, if you aren't doing crazy street stuff like grinds or sprocket stalls most any 3/32" 8 speed or lower chain should work fine.


3. Any 26" tire/tube recommendations?
I like the Maxxis Holy Roller for all around park and DJ stuff especially up front in a 2.4 size. For the rear a Holy Roller 2.2, Kenda K-Rad, Kenda Kiniption or Tioga FS100 should work fine.


4. How have you guys spaced the front fork? I haven't built a bike before and was wondering how many spacers I should use and where I should get them.
Depends on how long the steerer tube is. Just go to your LBS and get a bunch - they're typcially pretty cheap and it's good to have extra spacers laying around if you change stems, forks, or headsets.

Hope this helps.

[MotoCycle]

Thanks Don!

I got the rear wheel/hub off of Ebay and didn't notice the parts bag in the bottom of the box with the Phil Wood bolts and washers in it... Had thought I'd have to come up with a different axle, but looks like I'm covered on that.

For the chain I decided to go with the Shadow Conspiracy Interlock 2 (http://www.danscomp.com/464041.php?cat=PARTS)... A little expensive, but not too much all things considered.

Followed your advice on the tires and got the Maxxis Holy Rollers...

I'll just have to get used to the whole fork spacing thing... This will be my first fork install and I'd really like to get a clean look on it.

Thanks again!

[don]

Glad it worked out for you MotoCycle. That Shadow chain should be plenty good - a few of my BMX buds run it without issue.

Search on mtbr.com and on here about fork spacing and cutting a steerer tube. As this is your first fork install, I think it would be the best move to see if a local bike shop would do the cut and install for you.

Post some pics when it is done.

[MotoCycle]

I got a steerer cutter and feel ok about cutting the tube (which I will need to cut down). I'm just not sure what the ideal number of spacers to use is and where I should put them.

Is the ideal setup to just have one spacer between the headset and the stem? My headset is threadless (FSA Orbit Xtreme) so the top of that will have to fit in the stem...

[MC peepants]

before you cut it ride your bike with the spacers on top then change them to the bottom or maybe just on in the bottom of the stem, it really depends on what you will feel most confortable with whyle riding. Once you know which height or how many spacers you want to use the cut the steer down 3 mm shorter than the top of the stem and insert the star nut and put back together and ride away.

[don]

What MC peepants said. Ride and adjust before you cut. Leave a little extra if your stem has a really low stack height.