View Full Version : Industry 9 Hubs...
Beautiful!!!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/mtbnate/Bike%20Stuff/Picture065.jpg
narlus
08-03-2006, 06:52 PM
i guess they're ok if you had a boner for Pulstar hubs back in the day.
http://www.bikepro.com/products/hubs/hubs_jpg/w_pulstar_frnt.jpg
God I suck.
Totally.
My I9 wheels are black. Not as pretty, but work just as well.
We should make a club and let people hate on us together :)
The Ito
Toshi
08-03-2006, 08:06 PM
i guess they're ok if you had a boner for Pulstar hubs back in the day.
http://www.bikepro.com/products/hubs/hubs_jpg/w_pulstar_frnt.jpg
ah, good memory. i was trying to think of their name as soon as i saw n8's photo.
Ciaran
08-03-2006, 08:28 PM
N8, you should be using some Phil Wood hubs.
moff_quigley
08-03-2006, 09:17 PM
Crack one open, take some pics and show us what the innards of the freehub mech. look like. I don't think I've ever seen a pic of the internals.
Crack one open, take some pics and show us what the innards of the freehub mech. look like. I don't think I've ever seen a pic of the internals.
I will do that next week when I change out the rear axle with a new and improved one I9 sent me....
los jefes
08-04-2006, 07:59 PM
Functionally, they have nothing in common with Pulstar hubs. Not even the same concept.
vitox
08-05-2006, 09:25 AM
Functionally, they have nothing in common with Pulstar hubs. Not even the same concept.
how come, nipple at the other end?
los jefes
08-07-2006, 10:34 AM
The spoke is a one-piece aluminum spoke. It threads into the hub and there are tool flats machined out of the spoke itself, basically a long screw.
The Pulstar used an off the shelf straight-pull spoke with a standard nipple and thread at the rim.
James
08-07-2006, 10:49 AM
i guess they're ok if you had a boner for Pulstar hubs back in the day.
http://www.bikepro.com/products/hubs/hubs_jpg/w_pulstar_frnt.jpg
Man, that brings me back. I had a set of those on Mavic 231 rims. Then after they had gone away, I came across a blow-out sale from one of the distributors that our shop used, titanium spokes for the front wheel for $20. Snapped those bad boys up, it was a pretty sweet little wheelset, kinda wish I still had it. My hubs were silver though...
Do the I9s work similar to the Cane Creek wheels/hubs?
binary visions
08-07-2006, 11:35 AM
Do the I9s work similar to the Cane Creek wheels/hubs?
Yep. Somewhat similar.
The difference is that Cane Creek still uses nipples, just at the hub side instead of the rim side, and stock straight-pull spokes. These use a proprietary aluminum spoke that actually threads directly into the hub itself.
I rather view the I9's as a solution in search of a problem :think:. I understand the benefits, but a properly built wheel with brass nipples and butted spokes can be built awfully strong & light, and if you decide to hit something hard enough, you're probably going to destroy the spokes, nipples and maybe the rim, but you won't take your really expensive hub along with it.
They are beautiful, though :drool:
Thanks BV
I had some Cane Creek Terros Disc wheels and they were pretty damned stiff and sturdy. Not sure about the rear hub quality though, but those were their low end Disc wheels.
los jefes
08-07-2006, 02:15 PM
The hub actually cannot be destroyed by the spokes being damaged. It would be physically impossible. The spokes threaded end is larger in diameter than the rest of the spoke. The valley of the thread has a greater root diameter than the rest of the spoke making it the strongest point of the spoke instead of the weakest (as in a standard spoke). So in any possible case scenario, the spoke itself would fail before the threads could be damaged. In 2 1/2 years of testing there has not been a stripped thread on a hub.
Here is an excerpt that explains it well:
"By starting with a 20-25% larger cross-sectional area, our machined 7075-T651 aluminum is equal in strength to any 14-gauge or 14/15 DB spoke available. In many ways, the Industry Nine spoke is much stronger, because we have removed all the weak points (known as stress risers) inherent in the design of a traditional hooked steel spoke.
First, the spoke has no bend. This is nothing new, but remains an intelligent design. Most steel spokes fail either at the middle of the bend, or the first thread at the nipple end. By eliminating the bend altogether, the spoke is instantly less prone to fatigue stress failure.
Second, the root diameter of the Industry Nine one-piece spoke is actually larger than the diameter of the length of the spoke. Other spokes fail at the first thread because the root diameter (the bottom of the thread’s “V”) is actually the smallest diameter of the spoke, just where slight relative motions of the nipple apply additional bending forces. "
As far as fatigue life goes, aluminum spokes do not undergo the same fatigue cycles that a steel spoke goes through. Steel spokes load and unload quite a bit during revolutions, aluminum resists those loads much better and do not bend or flex as much. Therefore, a lighter fatigue cycle resulting in longer spoke life (approaching that of a steel spoke).
binary visions
08-07-2006, 02:47 PM
Interesting... Thanks for the info. I knew the thread diameter would have to be larger at the base, it's good to hear that you've got some real world testing to back it up.
I assume you are affiliated with the company in some way? Since the wheels are designed specifically to not tear out the threads at the hub, would doing so result in a warranty situation?
One other quick question: when truing the spokes, does the spoke have any tendancy to "wind up" or twist, since you are applying torque at the base of the spoke and need to overcome whatever friction exists at the spoke head on the rim side? Or are the spokes so thick that they resist that?
I can't find that excerpt at the website... Am I just missing it?
los jefes
08-07-2006, 04:21 PM
I assume you are affiliated with the company in some way? Since the wheels are designed specifically to not tear out the threads at the hub, would doing so result in a warranty situation?
One other quick question: when truing the spokes, does the spoke have any tendancy to "wind up" or twist, since you are applying torque at the base of the spoke and need to overcome whatever friction exists at the spoke head on the rim side? Or are the spokes so thick that they resist that?
I can't find that excerpt at the website... Am I just missing it?
Busted!!
Yes, I am affiliated with the company. Yes, that would result in a warranty situation.
The spokes do not wind up any more (a good bit less actually) than a standard spoke. With a standard spoke you still are working against the length of the spoke. There is a friction point at the rim and an anchor point at the hub, the spoke will wind up until the anchor overcomes the friction and allows the nipple to turn. Our spokes do not have an anchor point. They spin freely at either end. The cross sectional area is large enough to easily overcome the friction at the hub almost eliminating wind-up.
A simple way to think about:
14/17= Bad wind up
14/15= Not too bad
14g = Not much at all
11g aluminum= None to very little.
binary visions
08-08-2006, 05:38 AM
Cool.
Seems like there was a lot of thought put into these wheels. I figured the Asheville, NC connection was a pretty obvious indication that you worked for them ;)
Anyway, it's great to have another industry person on the board. You guys are a huge source of information. :thumb:
Possible hub problem with my SS:
When the wheel is centered between the chain stays the wheel leans to the non-drive side seat stay and when it is centered between the seat says, it leans toward the drive side chain stay... we measured the frame just as a precaution to make sure it wasn't racked and it isn't.
Just to check we put the another rear wheel with an I9 hub and it works fine. We think that perhaps the bearings are some how canted/tilted around the rear axle...
New I9 axle was installed and the wheel dish/etc is fine...
Thoughts???
Drevil
08-09-2006, 12:47 PM
Possible hub problem with my SS:
When the wheel is centered between the chain stays the wheel leans to the non-drive side seat stay and when it is centered between the seat says, it leans toward the drive side chain stay... we measured the frame just as a precaution to make sure it wasn't racked and it isn't.
Just to check we put the another rear wheel with an I9 hub and it works fine. We think that perhaps the bearings are some how canted/tilted around the rear axle...
New I9 axle was installed and the wheel dish/etc is fine...
Thoughts???If the bearings are not in the proper plane, then you could try loosening the wheel, rotating the axle a few degrees, then clamping it down again. If it's still not straight in your frame, then that would indicate to me that possibly the bearings aren't straight or the axle is screwy.
Another thing, is the tire seated on the rim straight and properly? Is there any wobbles in the tire?
Finally, are the dropouts slots perfectly straight and parallel (including the angle of the slots)?
1. If the bearings are not in the proper plane, then you could try loosening the wheel, rotating the axle a few degrees, then clamping it down again.
2. If it's still not straight in your frame, then that would indicate to me that possibly the bearings aren't straight or the axle is screwy.
3. a. Another thing, is the tire seated on the rim straight and properly? b. Is there any wobbles in the tire?
4. Finally, are the dropouts slots perfectly straight and parallel (including the angle of the slots)?
1. Tried that numerous times and still the wheel has the same characteristics.
2. That's what we suspect as well. We did change out the axle with a new one and the problem continued to exist.
3. a. Yes b. No
4. Yes. 30 min on the phone with the good peeps at Titus determined that the frame is well within tolerence.
I'm sure it's a freak occurence and can be worked out... my LBS wrench talked to Jeff(?) at I9 yesterday.
Wheel shipped back to I9, hopefully it won't take to long to see what the problem is... I was just getting to the SS grove.
:)
Wheel shipped back to I9, hopefully it won't take to long to see what the problem is... I was just getting to the SS grove.
:)
Awesome peeps at I9.... and they are regular members of the RideMonkey community too! :)
Had them check a hub for me which they did with a very quick turn around.
Props to them!
:thumb::thumb:
narlus
08-15-2006, 02:16 PM
so what was the problem?
Hopefully we can find out what the issue was and how it was resolved by I9 and keep this thread on track.
Thanks for your cooperation monkeys.
Hopefully we can find out what the issue was and how it was resolved by I9 and keep this thread on track.
Thanks for your cooperation monkeys.
I9 got the wheel Friday and found it to be 5mm out of dish. They also, as a bonus, replaced the hub shell and cleaned up the interals for me. It shipped back to me today so I can get back on the single speed!
All the time keeping me informed thru PM's here and email.
Thanks Jeff et al.
:thumb:
That is the type of customer service that should go along with wheels of that magnitude. Good to hear.
That is the type of customer service that should go along with wheels of that magnitude. Good to hear.
I9 knows how to keep customers happy. I had a problem with a set I bought off of a Monkey (who had won them at a race). They helped me out at the race and two weeks later I had replacement spokes and a whole new axle assembly for the front hub. I was impressed and very stoked, super dedicated guys.
The Ito
benwitt11
08-16-2006, 09:18 PM
I'll second the props to I 9. They've been top notch from day one. Great product and service to back it up.
I'll second the props to I 9. They've been top notch from day one. Great product and service to back it up.
yep... and they even sent me some spare spokes with the wheel.. damn awesome of them!!!!
Glad to have you over here on the Monkey Ben.
benwitt11
08-17-2006, 03:45 PM
This is an I 9 hub. This is your I 9 hub on drugs.
Took one apart for one of our shop guys. Beautiful machining, really top notch. Once I figured it all out it's super easy to work on. Gotta be real nice though. 0.050" bolts, man they're small!
Photo of mty Rx's hub...
http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/9792/locomtb21156011642mx1.jpg
well i finally broke a spoke on the Racer X's rear wheel... sheared off right at the hub thread.. flush.
what's the method for the extraction of the threaded part?
jncarpenter
09-21-2007, 10:12 PM
Call Jeff...that would be my method :)
Boxxer
09-22-2007, 12:17 AM
well i finally broke a spoke on the Racer X's rear wheel... sheared off right at the hub thread.. flush.
what's the method for the extraction of the threaded part?
Pretty sure the head side has a small allen head machined in....
Pretty sure the head side has a small allen head machined in....
holy tiny allen head Batman!!!!
i figured there had to be an easy way to do it and thx 2 you for pointing it out to me.
:)
Boxxer
09-22-2007, 04:15 PM
holy tiny allen head Batman!!!!
i figured there had to be an easy way to do it and thx 2 you for pointing it out to me.
:)
No problem.:monkeydance:
mud'n'sweat
09-22-2007, 04:24 PM
Pretty sure the head side has a small allen head machined in....
Ha! Brilliant! Good attention to detail. I hadn't yet thought of that scenario to even wonder if it had an easy solution. Luckily the guys at i9 are on their game.
-dustin
09-24-2007, 01:00 AM
why'd it fail? why'd if fail there at the hub?
just the usual culprit.. a stick
sticks in spokes suck.
they do! however, i normally break 3-4 per year and since using the I9's this is te he first one in 2 seasons.
-dustin
12-04-2007, 10:26 PM
just the usual culprit.. a stick
this happened to a customer of ours. ended up replacing a bunch of the driveside spokes.
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