Can't pull cables tight enough :(

[MtnBikerChk]

It doesn't matter if I'm putting on brake cables or der cables, I can never seem to pull them tight enough. It feels like they are good and tight and then I screw them down and they go slack again.

Any suggestions?

THANKS :)

[lux]

http://www.parktool.com/images/tools/BT_2B.jpg

[Westy]

Get that worthless husband of yours to help. A spare set of hands pulling on the cable while someone else tightens things up is a big help.

[MtnBikerChk]

Get that worthless husband of yours to help. A spare set of hands pulling on the cable while someone else tightens things up is a big help.

that's what we end up doing.

lux - I have that. you have to tighten it by hand first, don't you?

[MMcG]

Are you posting this to get ready to help me tonight with my disc brake cable installation?? :)

[lux]

that's what we end up doing.

lux - I have that. you have to tighten it by hand first, don't you?

Not sure what you're asking. Way back when, when I was a shop monkey, I'd hold the brakes hard against the rim with one hand and then stick that tool on the cable and squeeze with the other. I'd then tighten the cable attachment nut.

Always was able to get 'm plenty tight that way.

[partsbara]

long nose pliers work for me... pull cable with R hand... tighten with left...

[MtnBikerChk]

Not sure what you're asking. Way back when, when I was a shop monkey, I'd hold the brakes hard against the rim with one hand and then stick that tool on the cable and squeeze with the other. I'd then tighten the cable attachment nut.

Always was able to get 'm plenty tight that way.

discs.

[tonyhawk]

I think we're running the same brakes (Avid mechanicals?) and I always go through the following steps:

1) Make sure that the barrel adjusters on the brake levers are all the way in.

2) Check that the end-caps on the cable housing are pressed on all the way, and that they are completely inside the barrel adjuster.

3) Loosen the bolts that connect the caliper to the fork/frame adapter so that the caliper moves freely, then turn the pad adjusters in to center the caliper on the disc. It should be a tight fit.

4) Tighten the bolts that fasten the caliper to the adapter.

5) Pull the cable through and tighten the bolt that connects it to the caliper.

6) Loosen the pad adjusters.

7) Ride!

[lux]

Yep, that's how I did my old Hayes mechs.

Although I would add:

8) Squeeze the living piss outta the levers and hope to stop.

[jacksonpt]

long nose pliers work for me... pull cable with R hand... tighten with left...
yep yep

[sanjuro]

Assuming you are pulling the cables as tight as possible with pliers, the other reason for slack cables is the housing. For the cable system to work properly, the housing needs to be inflexible as possible so when you pull the cable, the housing does not bend or move.

I would take the cable out, and check each piece of housing including removing the ferrules. Look for any splits in the housing, and if so, I would replace it.

On the ends of housing, check if the outer plastic housing has pulled back. If the inner metal housing is sticking past the outer plastic, then the housing would flex. You can clip off the ends if necessary.

Finally, some full suspension designs, particularily GT I-drives and single pivots, the housing has to be routed correctly or when the rear triangle compresses (like when you sit on the bike), the rear cable tension slacks off. It is easy to miss that, especially if you do not test ride after installing new housing/cables.

[OGRipper]

Also, if you're talking about new cables and housing, you almost always need to adjust things pretty quickly for two reasons: Cables stretch and housing compresses (and settles into the ferrules) when new. I pre-stretch cables to minimize the effect, but even if you do that you'll still get some loosening at first.

[Dartman]

What "TonyHawk" said...

Use the barrel adjusters.

Turn them all the way in.

Get the cable as tight as you can.

Turn out the barrel adj. until you get required tension or indexing.

Mike